THE IMPACT OF FAST FASHION AND THE ROLE OF DESIGNERS IN
CREATING SUSTAINABLE FASHION
Vania Erlyn
Arizona State University
Course
Professor Dahlya
May, 2024
Week 1
Introduction
International clothing retailers are believed to be the drivers of industry globalization
Fashion. The success of Zara and H&M brands in the retail industry goes against the
conventional model. Some retail industries do not have factories in their home countries,
instead their factories are located in some developing countries, which have cheaper labor.
The modified structural characteristics of the supply chain have forced retailers to make low
cost, flexibility in design and quality, and speed of delivery to the market.
The fashion industry used to be able to anticipate fashion, create it, and even impose it
on consumers. The clothing industry will test products, write down preferences, and finally
develop a homogeneous fashion with a guaranteed market for the company (Dari, 2010).
The product distribution cycle is six months. Companies have to think about their product
management which is temporary due to the ever-changing fashion phenomenon. Companies
have to anticipate it by selecting the trends that will happen tomorrow, and they even depend
on third parties to select the trends.
The emergence of an international retail industry that competes by providing fashion
trends at low prices, limited quantities and fast changes, has forced consumers to always
visit stores and buy their products. Fast fashion is characterized by several marketing factors
such as low predictability, impulse purchases high, shorter life cycles and high market
demand, so a 'speed to market' approach is the priority (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010).
The development of the fast fashion industry that emphasizes speed, quantity and size
encourages a culture of consumption, resulting in problems to human welfare, such as unfair
trade, global warming, pollution, and increased waste. The objectives of this research are (1)
to investigate the concept of fast fashion and its relationship with the global fashion
industry, (2) to investigate the environmental impact of the growing fast fashion industry,
and (3) to explore the role of designers in creating sustainable fashion. This research focuses
on the literature on fast fashion, global fashion industry and environmental impact. This
literature review will provide an overview for fashion designers to know the current
condition of the global fashion industry and how to take a role as one of the actors in the
fashion industry.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
Fast Fashion And The Global Industry
In terms of suppliers, fast fashion is a clothing industry that pays attention to the
relationship between buyers and suppliers, fast response and supply chain management to
gain an edge in the market. While in terms of consumers, it is cheap and trendy clothing,
which changes very quickly to meet the needs of fashion-savvy consumers at the right time
in the market (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). According to Caro and Martínez (2015),
"Fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable prices."
Which means fast fashion is a business model that offers fashionable clothes at affordable
prices. From some of the above definitions, it can be concluded that fast fashion is a
business model that offers cheap and trendy clothes, the result of the collaboration of
producers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast changing to meet and
dominate the fashion market.
The characteristics of the fast fashion business according to Tokatli (2008) include (1)
the fast fashion business seeks to put products on the market immediately, the fast fashion
business increases the number of retailers/retailers around the world so that it can reach
more and more customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream
operations of design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires
short development cycles, rapid prototyping, and many variations so that customers are
offered the latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly responsive
supply chain.
According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010), in the 1980s the basic structure of the
fashion industry traditionally used the ability to forecast fashion trends and consumer
demand well in advance of product launches known as ready-to-wear. Fashion products are
updated twice a year: at the beginning of the calendar year the Spring-Summer collection is
introduced, at the end of summer the Fall-Winter collection is released. This pace of fashion
change is supported by design, communication (catwalks and mock-ups), sales and
marketing (catalogs, advertising) that follow the concept of the biannual pattern. Thus,
fashion product planning with this approach is considered static. In contrast, the fast fashion
industry can design, produce and distribute new products dynamically, both at the beginning
and in the middle of the season.
Around the year 2000, fashion retailers competed by speeding up the market and
quickly supplying fashion trends adopted from fashion shows, which was called quick
fashion. The dynamics of the fashion industry since then have led retailers to demand low
cost, flexibility in design, quality and speed to market. Retailers including brands Benetton,
H&M, Topshop and Zara have revolutionized the fashion industry with a strategy known as
democratization of couture and bringing trendy items at affordable prices to the
masses.According to fast fashion retailers have replaced traditional ready-to-wear retailers
where designers dictated trends, while the fast fashion industry is a haven for consumers
with rapidly changing trends. Fast fashion chains have grown very fast and earn 5%-20%
profit in Europe and America (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Based on figure 1, the fashion industry is depicted in a pyramid based on market
segmentation. There are various market segments The fashion industry ranges from haute
couture, ready-to- wear (luxury and commercial), start-ups, fast fashion and counterfeit.
Each of these segments uses specific methods to target retailers' markets, ranging from
branding, price, quality, availability, reputation and sustainability, which are just some of
their marketing tools. Couture represents the epitome of quality and taste, and luxury relies
on brand reputation and value as a status symbol of wealth. But unlike fast fashion, they rely
on consumers who make shopping a habit and a lifestyle. Low prices and rapid product
turnover make it an ongoing habit for consumers at all economic levels (Lambert, 2014).
According to Tokatli (2008), there are two categories of fast fashion retailers: those
with factories such as Beneton and Zara, and those without factories such as Gap, H&M, and
Mango. Factory-less retailers of course do not produce the retailer's clothing but outsource it
to other companies, factory-less retailers are the main driver of the globalization of the
clothing industry. H&M has 21 production offices: 10 in Europe and Asia, the others in
Africa. They have about 750 factories, 60% in Asia and the rest in Europe. They outsource
to some industrialized countries, where labor is significantly cheaper.
The Wikipedia website contains more than 40 fast fashion brands. Caro and Martínez
(2015) mentioned seventeen frequently mentioned fast fashion brands through the Factiva
database (table 1). These brands are retail companies that have brick & mortar stores and
online stores, not trendsetters but fashion followers that target the lower middle class. Zara
and H&M have made radical changes to the design cycle to provide fashion on demand.
Zara and H&M do not use a collection system, but rather choose a level of completeness,
which includes all sizes and colors of clothing. Order times can be as short as a few weeks,
especially for small quantities of trendy clothing (Caro and Martínez, 2015).
Table 1. Top Brand Fast Fashion
Ranking
Brand Name
1
H&M
2
Zara
3
Gap
4
Uniqlo
5
Topshop
6
Forever 21
7
Mango
8
Weat Seal
9
Benetton
10
New Look
11
Esprit
12
C&A
13
American Apparel
14
Urban Outfitters
15
Peacocks
16
Charlotte Russe
17
Armani Exchange
Fast Fashion And Environmental Impact
Fast fashion has become the most famous business model in the fashion industry due
to its impressive performance in the global market in recent years. Consumption was hailed
as the engine of capitalistic economies around the world in the 20th century. Materialistic
values were so widespread that many believed that the more things a person owned, the
better his or her life would be. An emphasis on speed, quantity, and size drives the culture of
consumption and industry, resulting in problems to human well-being. Examples are
environmental problems such as global warming, ozone depletion, water and air pollution,
species loss, and farmland erosion (Kim et al., 2013).
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Bick et al (2018), stated
"There are environmental hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile
supplies both natural fibers and synthetic fibers." Which means there are environmental
hazards during fashion production, especially about global textile supplies of both natural
and synthetic fibers. Growing cotton requires a large water supply and also a large amount
of pesticides that pollute the environment. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are derived
from non-renewable petroleum. Textile dyeing produces highly hazardous waste that
pollutes water and soil. In the production process of the garment industry there are also
many cases of work and safety standards. As happened in Bangladesh, the collapse of a
garment factory claimed many lives.
Carey and Cervellon (2014) revealed that due to consumer demand for cheap fashion
goods, the fashion industry lowered production costs so that sacrificing ethical standards,
using unfair labor practices, energy-inefficient supply chains and distribution practices, to
remain competitive in the fashion industry. Haug and Busch (2016) argue that there are three
main environmental impacts of the fashion industry, namely (1) the accelerating cycle of
new fashions, (2) declining clothing prices, and (3) low production costs in developing
countries. The fashion acceleration cycle in the fast fashion industry has grown faster than
other fashion industries, thus encouraging greater disposability.
Weber et al (2017) states "85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills.
Within a span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10%
of waste." Which means 85% of all textile waste in America ends up in landfills. Within a
span of 10 years the waste increased to 40%. In Canada textiles account for 10% of waste.
Landfilling is the dominant form of waste management, while synthetic materials are not
biodegradable.
The emergence and phenomenon of fashion is often associated with socio-cultural
changes in the lifestyle of consumers, who are constantly gaining knowledge about new
fashion trends and feel the need to adapt to fashion trends. This is a fact that has required the
fashion industry to respond quickly and change the fashion trends that consumers demand.
The increase in fashion purchases has led to a new phenomenon of discarding clothes that
have only been worn a few times.
The Role Of Designers In Creating Sustainable Fashion
The concept of sustainable fashion has become a trend in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion is a movement towards clothing and other fashion products that is
environmentally friendly and respects the community where the clothes are produced.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following is a
concept proposed by the author that a fashion designer must understand in creating
sustainable fashion.
Ethical Fashion
A designer must learn and pay attention to ethical fashion. Ethical fashion refers to
clothing that considers the impact of production and trade on the environment and the people
involved in making the clothes people wear (Haug and Busch (2016).
Ethical fashion is identified with (1) the problem of environmental damage and (2)
unfair conditions for those involved in the production process. Environmental problems such
as water pollution, excessive consumption of water, a lot of production waste being disposed
of, are some of the causes of environmental damage. As a fashion designer, we should strive
to reduce waste in the production process, or utilize production waste for other goods.
Workers' conditions must also be considered. The issue of sweatshops in garment factories
that employ workers in sweatshops is a major concern. Inadequate working conditions, high
demands and substandard wages have tarnished the garment industry, especially the fast
fashion industry. Therefore, fairness in the wage system and workplace conditions is one of
the principles of ethical fashion.
Eco Label
One way to identify sustainable fashion is by using eco-labels. So that consumers who
are looking for clothes that are produced in an environmentally friendly manner, they can
easily find them through the label. Labeling is one of the product marketing strategies (Haug
and Busch, 2016). There are several terms used in eco-friendly clothing labels, including:
eco, green, natural, organic and sustainable.
However, some argue that labeling is not transparent enough as to whether the garment
industry actually uses environmentally friendly materials or is sweatshop-free. So further
certification from a trusted organization is needed. For example, FAIRTRADE is an
independent certification used by 115 countries that certifies that products comply with fair
trade standards. ISO 14000 is a certification that the company has met sustainability aspects
(Haug and Busch, 2016). Other examples are SA8000, the WWF, the Soil Association, the
FSC, the EU flower, the Carbon Trust, and the Oeko-Tex 100 (Henninger, 2015).
Quality & Durability
The quality and durability of clothing are principles in producing sustainable fashion.
The quality of an item relates to its durability over a long period of time. A garment with
good quality, even if it is worn repeatedly, will still be good appearance. So that the clothes
remain in the wardrobe, on the contrary, clothes with poor quality will be quickly thrown
into the trash. A designer should strive to maintain the quality of the clothes, both in terms
of the materials used and the sewing techniques applied.
Sustainable fashion can be seen from the long-term benefits, even though the price is
more expensive but because the quality is good, it will have a longer life so it saves money
and is also not easily discarded. Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) refer to sustainable fashion as
slow fashion products that aim to extend the life of fashion products and to obtain product
satisfaction.
Timeless
Sustainable fashion can be identified as clothing that can be worn over a long period of
time, hence simple designs and classic shapes are one of its characteristics. To challenge the
high-frequency fashion industry, designers adopt flexible designs without seasons, fashion is
not based on time but on quality (Barnes et al., 2013). Reinforced by Fletcher (2010) who
states "Sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality,
for that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year." Which means
sustainable fashion called slow fashion is not based on quantity but based on quality, for
that pieces without a season that can be used throughout the year.
Mix and match can be a more sustainable clothing choice, because you don't need to have
many items of clothing to be able to change styles frequently. Designers must be able to
show how to mix and match clothes as an alternative appearance that their customers need.
According to Wong et al (2009) fashion mix and match or fashion mix and match
Coordination is currently trending in the retail business and has become a necessity to
improve customer service and increase sales.
Local & Traditional
One of the principles of sustainability is to reduce costs and environmental impacts
caused by transportation. Therefore, the use of local ingredients and local marketing is
encouraged. The cost of shipping from or overseas will require more transportation and fuel
costs. In addition, local businesses will also increase employment in local communities.
Fletcher (2010) stated that the normal cycle of making clothes with traditional
manufacturing techniques can be a strategy for slow fashion that offers a different marketing
angle such as adding aesthetic flavor. Sustainable fashion design creates and adds unique
items such as craftsmanship and handcrafts that can reflect self-identity (Jung and Jin,
2016). A fashion designer can add elements of traditional skills and engineering to add value
to the clothing they create.
Recycling & Upcycling
Recycling is based on converting materials from existing products to make different
products (Todeschini et al., 2017), while upcycling is transforming clothing by applying
aesthetic changes so that it becomes a new and attractive garment (Janigo and DeLong,
2017). Recycling and upcycling are strategies that support the circulation of materials,
thereby reducing the accumulation of fashion waste.
A designer with his or her aesthetic skills can contribute in reducing fashion waste with
fashion recycling and upcycling. In making clothes using the recycling and upcycling
method, it does not limit the use of certain fabrics, but is based on the availability of unused
materials. The collection of post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste as the main
source of materials is the main agenda in determining the design, and the flexibility of the
design is also one of the series of design collection processes created (Han et al., 2017).
Zero Waste & Modular Structures
Zero waste has gained popularity as an environmentally friendly way of manufacturing
products. The concept of zero waste is based on the idea of minimizing material waste in
clothing production (Todeschini et al., 2017). Zero waste aims to eliminate fabric waste in
the pattern cutting phase (Niinimäki, 2013). The zero waste method is a zero-waste garment
manufacturing process that poses a challenge especially to the design, because at the same
time designers have to think about the aesthetic and functional issues of the garment
simultaneously (Carrico and Kim, 2013).
According to Niinimäki and Hassi (2011), modular structure modular structure allows
for quick disassembly and reassembly. This concept offers product personalization through
modifications, such as several pieces of clothing that can be changed, or consumers can
choose details according to their favorite colors or materials. Another advantage of the
modular structure is that parts of the clothing that get dirty easily can be removed and
washed separately. Clothing with a modular structure can provide satisfaction and extend
product life, with components that can be separated and washed separately recombining
makes it possible to replace new components without losing their primary functionality
(Ülkü and Hsuan, 2017). Figure 1 is an example of a modular structural design by Amber
Valetta in the form of 5 pieces of clothing that can be detached and assembled, resulting in
several styles. Fashion designers can practice and explore zero waste methods and modular
structures to create sustainable fashion.
Conclusion
Fast fashion is a business model that offers cheap and trendy clothing, the result of the
collaboration of manufacturers, suppliers, and consumers, whose turnover is very fast
changing to meet and dominate the fashion market. The characteristics of fast fashion
businesses include (1) they try to put products in the market immediately, they increase the
number of retailers/retailers around the world so that they can reach more and more
customers; (2) there is a need to connect customer demand with upstream operations of
design, procurement, production and distribution; (3) fast fashion requires short
development cycles, rapid prototyping, and a lot of variety so that customers are offered a
wide range of products latest designs in limited quantities; and (4) a very fast and highly
responsive supply chain.
An emphasis on speed, quantity and size drives the culture of consumption and industry,
resulting in problems for human welfare, especially pollution and unfair trade practices. The
fast fashion industry has grown faster than other fashion industries, leading to greater
disposability. The fast fashion industry is a contributor to waste textiles that end up in
landfills, while synthetic materials are not biodegradable. In addition, fast fashion is
responsible for nearly 10 percent of global gas emissions that result in global warming.
Greenhouse gases and various pesticides and dyes are released into the environment by the
fast fashion industry. The increasing demand for fast fashion constantly adds to the release
of waste from textile factories, which contains dyes and caustic solutions. The materials
used not only affect the environment of the textile products, but also the workers and people
who wear the clothes. The harmful substances in the manufacture of fast fashion products
affect all aspects of life and are released into the environment.
Designers are one of the actors in making fashion products, so their role in creating
sustainable fashion is very useful in helping to save the planet earth. The following concepts
are proposed by the author that can be an alternative in creating sustainable fashion, among
others: ethical fashion, eco label, quality & durability, timeless design, local & traditional,
recycling & upcycling, and zero waste & modular structures.
