write the fashion history project
shazuanzhe
historicismproject_example.pptxHistoricism Project
CSFRST 2374
Karli Poliziani
1910 Kimono
Gucci 2015
Vogue Paris Online
http://en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/diaporama/fwpe2015-top-20-trends-for-spring-summer-2015/15479#tendances-mode-printemps-t-2015-kimono
Credit Line: Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Accession Number: 2009.300.1282
Date: ca. 1910
http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/155980
Kimonos are a very popular form of dress today, inspired by styles in the early 1900’s. In Japan kimonos originally offered many advantages including being easy to fold up, being suitable for different weather conditions, and they’re made of breathable fabric for layering; all benefits of the Americanized Kimono today. In both America and Japan the kimono is a loose fitting garment that has loosely hanging sleeves, folding over in front which can also make it double-breasted. The kimono was introduced by Pioret in the 1900s and also designed by Fortuny in the 1910s. The introduction of the kimono was influenced by orientalism and the obsession with Ballet Russe at the time. These two garments have similar natural patterns and subtle colors, along with long silhouettes tied at the waist. The kimono has been brought back into style because of its ease and stylish patterns. Fashion has also taken a global interest in incorporating orientalism back into American fashions. It is used more or less as a cover up to add style, while still being comfortable, to any outfit.
1920’s Fringe
Cream silk satin dress with pearls and beaded fringe; American
1920s
KSUM 1983.1.2488
Kent State University Museum
https://www.kent.edu/museum/news/kent-state-museums-flapper-style-highlight-1920s-fashion
Proenza Schouler 2015
Vogue Paris Online
http://en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/diaporama/fwpe2015-top-20-trends-for-spring-summer-2015/15479#tendances-mode-printemps-t-2015-oiseaux-de-nuit
The fringe is a symbol of freedom, playfulness, and the nighttime. Originally brought into style in the 1920’s it was worn primarily by flappers and for dancing to the popular Jazz music of the time. In the 1920’s, hemlines were rising and women’s fashion were becoming more risqué. A big influence in the change of silhouettes at the time was female liberation and their freedom from limits that paralleled changes in the social roles of women. Although it is not as prominent as the time of the flappers, similar roles are taking place today with female liberation and women gaining roles in politics and other high held positions. This is giving women a feeling of empowerment and freedom to do what we want compared to past generations. You can see when comparing the two garments that the fringe add flare yet add a subtle and delicate feel to the garments. This came back into style because we are in a time of expressing ourselves and our sexuality, while still wanting to be stylish and different. Both garments consist of neutral colors and loose silhouettes to balance out the sexual factor of the fringe detail.
1929 Male Wardrobe
Designer: Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel
Date: 1929
Accession Number: 1984.154.1a–c
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/81481
Sonia Rykiel 2015
Vogue Paris Online
http://en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/diaporama/fwpe2015-top-20-trends-for-spring-summer-2015/15479#tendances-mode-printemps-t-2015-costume-raye
Women conquering men’s styles represents power, independence, and equality. In the 20’s Chanel began using elements of men’s clothing into her designs for women; this was also due to female liberation and gaining power compared to our men counterparts. Her suit’s were untailored with flowing lines and simplicity. Today’s fashion of women’s suits and women wearing men’s styles follow Chanel’s trend with comfort fitting garments that are elegant, yet professional. Women are reaching equality with men in 2015 and to be able to style originally men’s clothing shows that we are not only equal, but just as powerful. The asymmetrical lines and padded shoulders in these two garments make a bold statement, while still allowing the wearer to look sexy and empowering. The Chanel suit has always been a key element in a woman’s wardrobe, but the suit is specifically becoming more popular today in the age of feminism and equality.
1932 Sheer
Sheer day dress 1932
S2006.870.108
FIDM Museum
http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2010/09/see-through-dresses-of-the-1930s.html
Dolce & Gabbana 2015
Vogue Paris Online
http://en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/diaporama/fwpe2015-top-20-trends-for-spring-summer-2015/15479#tendances-mode-printemps-t-2015-transparence-noire
Sheer is an element added to any style to add a sense of sexuality and sophistication. Sheer has been seen a lot in the past being paired with black to create a simple piece or for elegant evening wear. In the 30s sheer was very popular to add allure to the skin. This was seen especially in women’s stockings to enhance their legs, but also in their garments which gave women a new freedom. Hollywood was a big influence in the 30’s and women aimed to dress like their favorite stars in the movies. You can see the similarity within these garments of the visibility of the skin and the added color of the fabric along the bottom of the sleeves and the neckline to attract the eye to the outline of the garments, making it less provocative at first glance. Sheer styles have become popular again due to the obsession with women’s figures and showing off skin in 2015. We also still aim to dress like those we see in Hollywood movies and today we see most actresses wearing sheer or skin revealing dresses on the red carpet and to Hollywood events.
1938 Platform Heel
Platform Sandals, Salvatore Ferragamo
Date: 1938
Accession Number: 1973.282.2
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/82443
Saint Laurent 2015
Vogue Online
http://www.vogue.com/2045735/best-accessory-saint-laurent-spring-2015-shoe/
Platform shoes have a thick sole and heel to provide maximum height and plenty of color and style to the shoe, and to any outfit it is paired with. Vivier first introduced the platform shoe in the 30’s and Ferragamo created the first wedge platform as seen in the picture to the right. In the 30’s platform shoes were worn by famous actors and the fad was brought back into style in the 60’s when colorful, flamboyant fashions emerged, but became more popular during the 70’s. In the 90’s the shoe emerged once again which is why it is not surprising they are coming back into style today. Platforms provide color, length to the leg, and are a statement piece to any outfit. You can see the very similar characteristics between the two images including the thick sole and heel, the thin ankle strap, and the gold accents. In 2015, having a high heel and a bold color is the main trend which is why the platform heel is the perfect shoe.
1965 Color Block
“Mondrian” day dress 1965
Yves Saint Laurent
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/C.I.69.23
Maison Martin Margiela 2015
Vogue Paris Online
http://en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/diaporama/fwpe2015-top-20-trends-for-spring-summer-2015/15479#tendances-mode-printemps-t-2015-volumes-concept
The 1960’s consisted of flat planes of canvases mostly because of the contemporary artists which YSL used to his advantage to create the perfect layout for color blocks. In the 60’s color became a big influence in fashion, especially during the mod generation due to the want to be youthful and modern. This design also creates movement among the eye and takes away from the actual shape of the body under the dress. I believe this factor is a major component to why color blocks have made their way back into fashion, along with the desire to be youthful and to be able to incorporate flattering shades on areas of the body that accentuate certain features while hiding others. When comparing the two garments there is a clear relationship between the use of the color black with the garments, and also the color blocks being located over the left-side breast and on the right-side shoulder. Although the hemlines have changed over the years, the use of the color blocks are very similar.
1967 Mini Shift
Yves Saint Laurent Mini Dress 1967
99.384.1A-C
FIDM Museum
http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2012/05/yves-saint-laurent-mini-dress-c-1967.html
Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy 2015
InStyle Online
http://www.instyle.com/fashion/clothing/then-and-now-70s-trend#518791
In the sixties Mary Quant set the scene for the “fashion is fun” theme with the mini shift dress and her bold prints and colors of the mod generation. The youth quake represented a time to be young and show skin which is why all of the clothing became “mini” which also introduced body stockings and other styles to go with this new trend. The mini shift dress represented the youth culture which is why it has become so popular in 2015 too, in a generation where being young and playful is all that seems to matter. You can see the two dresses both have A-line silhouettes and have hemlines above the knee that lie at about mid-thigh. Even though these dresses are half a century apart they look as though they could be interchangeable. Both time periods represent women’s freedom and expression in youthfulness as seen in the details of the garments.
1968 Gladiator Sandals
Photo by Franco Rubartelli
Vogue 1968
Vogue Online
http://www.vogue.com/13253317/gladiator-sandals-spring-2015-trend-history/
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino 2015
Elle Online
http://www.instyle.com/fashion/clothing/then-and-now-70s-trend#518796
The hippie era brought about a style of skin freeing garments and nature influenced clothing and accessories. The gladiator sandals were popularly seen laced up the leg with rope or chunky chains up the front of the shoe. 2015 has brought back this style with the trend of wanting the peace and love of the hippie generation and creating a bohemian style among the youth. Although the specifics of the social and political times are different in these two eras, the 2015 generation wants to be a care free, nature loving generation just like in the 60’s due to the overall similarity of anti-war protests and beliefs among the youth. Both shoes on this slide have strappy ropes across the foot and make use of natural colors. Today’s style of the gladiator shoe represents femininity, the past, and the future, and can go with any outfit from dresses to shorts.
1969 Jumpsuit
Ralph Lauren 2015
Vogue Paris Online
http://en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/diaporama/fwpe2015-top-20-trends-for-spring-summer-2015/15479#tendances-mode-printemps-t-2015-combipantalon
Photo by Giampaolo Barbieri
1969
http://fashionganga.com/2011/08/15/history-of-jumpsuits-then-to-now/#jp-carousel-1457
Jumpsuits are a style that have been around a long time, not only in terms of fashion, but for functionality as well. Originally created for occupational use such as for pilots and technicians, jumpsuits made their way into the fashion scene as a comfortable and trendy garment. They became popular in the 60’s with the youth quake for being fun, spirited, and youthful. In 1969 Elvis popularized the jumpsuit, but it soon moved back to women’s fashion in the 70’s with their bright colors and wide flowing legs. Jumpsuits today still have the deep V-neck and flowing fabrics, although a lot of jumpsuits now have fitted ankles or statements pieces added to them. Designers today have brought them back into style because of their flexibility in such a fast-paced, yet fashionable, world. Also, the jumpsuit is the perfect garment for a desired youthful look in 2015, as discussed on previous slides.
1991 Pop Art
Designer: Gianni Versace
Date: 1991
Accession Number: 1993.52.4
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/83250
Loewe 2015
Vogue Paris Online
http://en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/diaporama/fwpe2015-top-20-trends-for-spring-summer-2015/15479#tendances-mode-printemps-t-2015-arty-pop
Pop art is defined as art based on modern popular culture. It emerged in the mid-50’s in Britain and the US and aimed to present images of popular culture versus elitist culture in art. Pop art was transformed from just museum wall art to clothing designs when popular works from artists, such as Andy Warhol, were printed onto dresses and garments in the 60’s. In the 1990’s runway shows became more popular, increasing the importance of pop art in fashion to represent the current culture and incorporation of high fashion, as seen through Versace’s piece. The trend has since continued as a form of expressing art and culture. As a part of a generation that is centered around ourselves and the “bigger picture” I feel that pop art is necessary in fashion to express our creativity and popular culture and media. The similarities in the 1991 Versace dress and the 2015 Loewe dress include the bright colors with a dark contrast, and simple knee length dresses that purposefully don’t make the dresses too overwhelming with the artwork.
