23 questions about Textile class.

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Chapter 8

Synthetic Fibers

T101
Survey of the Textile Industry

Christina Rapa

[email protected]

215-490-7999

Heat sensitive: softens or melts with heat
Chemically resistant
Pilling: formation of tiny balls of fiber on fabric
Static electricity: soil and lint cling; problems in production and use
Oleophilic: affinity for oil and

grease

Hydrophobic: low absorbency

Common Properties of
Synthetic Fibers

Slick and abrasion resistant (Acrylic has lowest)

Strong and resilient

Resistant to insects, fungi and rot

Wide variation in flame resistance

Low density

Non-biodegradable

Common Properties of
Synthetic Fibers

Glazing of heat sensitive fibers

Figure 8.2 Heat and pressure cause permanent flattening of the yarn. Glazing is a permanent change in fiber or yarn cross section.

Fabric Swatch Kit #104

Melt spun: used for most synthetics
Drawn: to develop strength, pliability, toughness, and elasticity properties
Heat set to stabilize yarns or fabrics

Common manufacturing processes

Melt-spinning a

synthetic fiber

by hand.

Melt Spinning

Filament Staple

Heat Setting Synthetic Fibers

Advantages	Disadvantages
Permanent embossed designs	“Set” creases and wrinkles are hard to remove in ironing or in garment alteration
Permanent pleats and shape	Care must be taken in washing or ironing to prevent wrinkles
Stable size, even for knits
Crush resistant pile
Wrinkle resistant apparel

Fabric Swatch Kit #98

Production:
melt spun from condensation polymer made from diamine & acid;
cold drawn

Nylon (polyamide)

Manufacturing Nylon

A long chain synthetic polyamide in which less than 85% of the amide linkages are attached directly to two aromatic rings

Common types: Nylon 6 & 6,6

nylon6,6 from hexamethylene diamine and adipic acid

Nylon Video

Aesthetics
Produces sheer and durable fabrics
Poor cover
Hand, texture, luster, etc. can be

controlled for end use

Durability
High tenacity
Good breaking elongation
Excellent abrasion resistance

Nylon Properties

Fabric Swatch Kit #69

Comfort
Smooth & silky feel
Low density
Low absorbency / quick drying
Static prone
Care
Resistant to chemicals, insects and mildew
Color scavenger (picks up color from other textiles and soil)
Low melting point
Oleophilic
Degraded quickly by sunlight

Nylon Properties

Appearance retention
Excellent resiliency & elasticity
Retains appearance well
Pills readily

Solubility test:
Dissolves in Sulfuric acid, 70%, 38°C
Dissolves in Hydrochloric acid, 20%, 20°C
Dissolves in Cresol (meta), 100% 139°C
Burn test:
Melts and pulls away from flame, May self-extinguish, Hard grey or tan bead, Celery-like smell

Identifying Nylon

Nylon End Uses: Carpet

Absorbent Wool

Stain Resistant Nylon

Apparel
Technical: tire cord, car interiors, ropes, performance apparel, sporting goods

Nylon End Uses:

Nylon Microfibers

Producer	Trade Name	Size, dpf	End Use
Silky Touch	0.8	Lingerie, swimwear
INVISTA	Supplex	1.0	Athletic Sportswear
Microsupplex	0.7	Athletic Sportswear
Meryl	0.7	Athletic Sportswear Lingerie

Polyester

Production
Melt spun of condensation polymer from di-acid and di-alcohol
Hot drawn

Polyester

Aesthetics
Can resemble most natural fibers
Many types
Durability
Excellent strength & abrasion resistance
Good breaking elongation

Polyester

Fabric Swatch Kit #67

Polyester

Comfort
Low density
Low absorbency
Static prone
Soil release finishes improve wicking
Performance and stretch polyester

available

Sustainability: Can be recycled!

Polyester Properties

Appearance retention
Excellent elasticity and resiliency
Does not shrink if properly heat set
Resists wrinkling
Care
Easy care, quick drying
Resists most common fiber degradants
Thermoplastic
Heavier than nylon & acrylic
Oleophilic

Polyester Properties

Technical: fiberfill, nonwoven fabrics, tire cord, sporting goods, rope, cordage, filters, geotextiles, medical applications

Polyester End Uses:

Hollow polyester fibers:

(a) 1-Hollofil (b) 4-Quallofil (c) 7-Hollofil

Solubility test: Cresol (meta), 100% 139°C
Resistant to most other solvents
Burn test:
Melts and pulls away from flame. May self-extinguish, Hard black bead, Sweet Odor

Identification of Polyester

Acrylic

Production
Addition polymer or copolymer
Dry spun & hot drawn or wet spun & drawn
Physical structure
Cross sectional shape & size varies
Usually staple

Acrylic

A long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of acrylonitrile units
Copolymer or graft copolymer
Bicomponent

Chemical Structure of Acrylic:

Fabric Swatch Kit #49

Aesthetics
Various types
Often textured or crimped
Durability
Moderate tenacity, abrasion resistance,

& breaking elongation

Acrylic Properties

Acrylic blend Cashmere

Fiber Property	Acrylic	Wool
Abrasion Resistance	Good	Fair
Breaking Tenacity	2.0-3.0 g/d dry	1.5g/d dry
1.8-2.7g/d wet	1.0g/d wet
Breaking Elongation	35%	25%
Elastic Recovery	92%	99%

Comfort
Not as synthetic feeling
Low density
Low regain
Appearance retention
Good resiliency & elasticity
Moderate dimensional stability
Poor heat settability
Pills readily

Acrylic Properties

Solubility test: Dimethyl Formamide, 100%, 90°C
Burn Test:
Melts and pulls away from flame, Continues to burn and melt, Brittle, Black, hard bead, Chemical odor

Identification of Acrylic:

Acrylic that is magnified

3000x shows a pitted and

irregular surface

Interiors
Technical: craft yarn, tarps, awnings, luggage, vehicle covers, tents, sandbags, precursor of carbon fiber

Acrylic End Uses

Fabric Swatch Kit #112

Apparel

Acrylic End Uses

Polypropylene (PP)
Polyethlyene (PE)
Production
High pressure system
Low pressure system
Addition polymer: melt spun; cold drawn
May be gel spun
Physical structure: available in many forms
Olefin fibers account for 16% of all manufactured fibers

Olefin

Aesthetics
can be modified for end use
Durability
Good tenacity, elongation, and abrasion resistance
Comfort
Low moisture regain
Good wicking
Non-static
Light weight
Waxy hand, but can be modified

Olefin Properties

Appearance retention
Excellent resiliency
Good dimensional stability
Care
Unaffected by water borne stains
Excellent resistance to most chemicals
Low melting point
Oleophilic

Olefin Properties

Apparel
Interiors
Technical:
carpet backing; dye nets, diaper cover stock, filter fabrics, bags, wall panel fabrics, envelopes, banners, geotextiles, ground cover fabrics, protective clothing, substrates for coated fabrics, ropes, twines

Olefin End Uses:

Solubility test
Dissolves in Xylene (meta), 100%, 139°C

Identification of Olefin