23 questions about Textile class.
47290v3o0
chapter11rapa2.ppt- Can be found on BB under Lectures / Exams
- Print out, hand-write answers
- 10% deduction for each day late
Test #3 – Due Tuesday, October 7th
Chapter 11
Yarn Classification
T101
Survey of the Textile Industry
Christina Rapa
215-490-7999
- Spiral arrangement of fibers within a yarn
- Direction: S or Z (Z is most common)
- Amount of twist: varies with length of fiber, yarn size, &end use; low, napping, regular, high/voile, or crepe twist
Twist
Yarn Twist
Types of Yarn Twist
| Amount | Examples | Characteristics |
| Low | Filament yarns: 2-3 tpi | Smooth or bulky, hard to see twist |
| Napping | Blanket warp: 12 tpi filling: 6-8 tpi | Bulky, soft, fuzzy, may be weak |
| Average | Percale warp: 25 tpi filling: 20 tpi | Most common, smooth, regular, durable, comfortable |
| Voile | Voile warp: 35-40 tpi filling: 30-40 tpi | Strong fine yarns produce fabrics with harsher hand due to yarn twist |
| Crepe | True crepe warp: 40-45 tpi filling: 40-80 tpi | Lively yarns that kink and twist in fabrics with good drape and texture. |
- Smooth or Bulk Filament yarns: very low twist
Low Twist Yarns
- No Twist
Monofilament
- Spun yarns:
- low twist
- usually filling direction to facilitate brushing fibers to surface (napping)
- for flannelette, flannel, blankets, etc.
Napping Twist
Fabric Swatch Kit #82 Napping Twist
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- Spun Yarns: most common type of twist, neither low nor high, used for most end uses
Average Twist
- Spun Yarns: high twist, used for voile
Voile Twist
- Spun or Filament Yarns:
- very high twist, produces lively yarn
Crepe Twist
Fabric Swatch Kit #23 Crepe Twist
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- Yarn number: Indirect System
- Cotton, Woolen, Worsted systems
- length per unit weight (finer yarns, higher numbers)
- Denier: Direct system
- weight per unit length (g/9,000 m)
- finer yarns, lower numbers
- for yarns and fibers
- Tex: Direct system
- weight per unit length (g/1,000 m)
- finer yarns, lower numbers (decitex or dtex)
Yarn Size
Cotton Yarn System
Denier Yarn System
Hosiery Blouses, shirts, lingerie Outerwear, Upholstery
20 Denier 40-70 Denier 140-520 Denier 520-840 Denier
- Ply: 2 or more singles; increases diameter, strength, and performance (usually spun yarns).
- Filament ply, cord, or cable – industrial products
Plied Yarns
Plied Yarns
Single / Ply / Complex Yarns
- Heavy thick cord
- Large in diameter
- Combines strands together
- Technical products
Rope
- Yarn for stitching materials together
- Available in several sizes and structures:
- ply, corded, cable, braided, textured filament, smooth filament, monofilament, and core spun
- Lubricant or wax finish to facilitate sewing
- Many fibers used
- Size as denier, tex, count, yarn number or ticket number
Sewing Thread
- Stitch design or pattern on fabric surface
- Variety of luster, color, texture, fibers, hand, and use
- Performance factors
- shrinkage, bleeding, elongation, strength, and colorfastness
Embroidery Thread
Parts of a Novelty Yarn
- 3 main parts of a novelty yarn:
- Ground or foundation or core component
- Fancy or effect component
- Binder
Uses:
- usually in filling only
- adds interest
- may add crease resistance to fabric
- decreases durability
- increases cost
- fashion component
Examples of Novelty Yarns
- Slub or flake
- insert small tufts of fiber in yarn
(tweed)
- Spiral or corkscrew:
- 2 parts twisted together
- differ in color, size, or texture
- Ratiné
- spiral effect with loops at intervals
Novelty Yarn Types
- Knot, spot, nub, or knop:
- effect twisted many times in one spot
- Spike or snarl
- open loops at intervals
- Loop, curl, or bouclé
- closed loops at intervals
Novelty Yarn Types
- Metallic
- metal incorporated with yarn
- Chenille
- short pile fibers held in place by two binder yarns twisted together
Novelty Yarn Types
Fabric Swatch Kit #20
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Novelty Yarns
- Ratine
- Wrapped Yarn
- Warp Knit Yarn
- Warp Knit Yarn
- Stitched Yarn
- Three Ply Yarn
- Complex three-ply yarn
- Braided
- braid 3 or more yarns together
- Knit
- narrow knit tube of very fine yarns
- Stitched
- ribbon-like yarn with one or more rows of stitched thread
- Combination
- one of more fancy yarns (may also include simple yarns)
Novelty Yarn Types
Fabrics with Novelty Yarns
- Covered: yarn wraps around spandex or rubber
- Core-spun: fiber completely covers core of another fiber
Composite Yarns
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- Thin spots: causes problems with processing, fabrication, finishing
- Neps: small knot of entangled fibers; causes problems with dyeing and finishing
Yarn Quality
- Hairiness
- excessive fiber ends on yarn surface
- yarns more sensitive to abrasion and pilling
- cause problems with fabrication and performance
Yarn Quality
- Characteristics & performance are measured to ensure consistent fabric and product quality and performance
- Consider size, twist, bulk, evenness, & appearance
- Strength, resistance to abrasion, & other performance aspects
Yarn Performance
