Chop Suey

Ah Quin’s recipes for potato and salmon dishes, muffi ns, and beef and lamb pies in his diary, 1879. ( Ah Quin Diary Collection, MS 209, San Diego History Center Document Collection, San Diego, Calif . )

C o p y r i g h t 2 0 1 4 . C o l u m b i a U n i v e r s i t y P r e s s .

A l l r i g h t s r e s e r v e d . M a y n o t b e r e p r o d u c e d i n a n y f o r m w i t h o u t p e r m i s s i o n f r o m t h e p u b l i s h e r , e x c e p t f a i r u s e s p e r m i t t e d u n d e r U . S . o r a p p l i c a b l e c o p y r i g h t l a w .

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Nanking Cafe, established by Ah Quin’s son, Tom, in San Diego. ( Collection of Yong Chen )

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Paul Frenzeny, “A Chinese Reception in San Francisco,” Harper’s Weekly , June 9, 1877. (Reprinted by permission of HarpWeek)

The dining hall of Shanghai Low, in San Francisco, in 1938. Established in 1913, it was proclaimed to be Chinatown’s “best” restaurant. ( Collection of Yong Chen )

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Different editions of Buwei Yang Chao’s famous cookbook How to Cook and Eat in Chinese . ( Photograph by Yong Chen )

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The menu of Yuen Faung Low, in Minneapolis, before World War II. ( Collection of Yong Chen )

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The Hing family’s Spring Garden Grocery in Arizona, 1925. (Courtesy Bill Hing)

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A view of the exhibition “Have You Eaten Yet?” at the Museum of Chinese in America, New York, 2005. ( Photograph by Yong Chen )

Ming Tsai ( right ), chef/owner of Blue Ginger, one of a new generation of Chinese Ameri- can restaurateurs who have ventured into fusion cooking. ( Photograph by Yong Chen )

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Panda Drive in Huntington Beach, California, one of the fi rst independently owned drive- through Chinese restaurants, 2004. ( Photograph by Yong Chen )

Chinese Inn, a take-out restaurant in New Orleans that serves African American custom- ers, 2011. Its menu includes traditional food like chow chow, lo mein, and chow mein, as well as six kinds of Yetcamein dishes. ( Photograph by Yong Chen )

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Golden Bowl Chop Suey, a fortifi ed take-out restaurant in Detroit that serves a predomi- nantly African American clientele. ( Photograph by Yong Chen )

Ocean Buffet in Brooklyn Center, Minnesota. Often operated by people from Fujian Prov- ince, especially Changle County, home to many undocumented immigrants, buffet-style eateries are a new trend in the Chinese restaurant industry across the United States. ( Photo- graph by Yong Chen )

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The Sichuan-style Cheng Du Tian Fu (Heavenly City of Chengdu) food stall in the basement of the food court at the Golden Mall in Flushing, New York, 2011. ( Photograph by Yong Chen )

Mr. Lee, a California beef noodle franchise, in Haidian District, Beijing, 2010. ( Photo- graph by Yong Chen )

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American fast food transported the Chinese way: one of the delivery bicycles in front of a KFC restaurant in Wuhan, 2009. ( Photograph by Yong Chen )

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Panda Express at a rest stop along Interstate 5 in California, 2009. ( Photograph by Yong Chen )

The fi rst 99 Ranch Market in Irvine, California, which opened in December 1992. Since 1984, this Chinese supermarket chain has established thirty-fi ve stores in four western states, thus becoming an important landmark in the development of new Chinese com- munities. ( Photograph by Yong Chen )

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