sparkling wine
The Production of Dessert Wines and Fortified Wines
Week 5 Part TWO
Week 5 Part TWO (Module A) Dessert Wines: Sauterns, Icewine and more…
Sauternes - French
The type of Sherry grapes
Making different types of Sherry
The flor protects against oxidation.
Solera
Aging process of making some types of Sherry
Sherry like?
Montilla
Malaga
Marsala
Sauthern
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Dessert Wines
What comes to mind?
Sweet?
Cloying?
Intense?
Fortified?
Low alcohol? Or High alcohol?
For ordinary fortified wines, hot growing regions are beneficial for both high vineyard yields, and high sugar content grapes.
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Sauternes: Bordeaux (France)’s sweet wine
France: Sauternes, Bordeaux
Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon blends
Muscadelle
12-13% alcohol, 6-8% residual sugar
Fact: Sauternes is one of the most expensive wines produced in all of Bordeaux areas
(Image citation: Winefolly.com)
Video clip “Sauternes: The Sweet Alternative”
Sauterne: The Sweet Alternative
Highlights from video clip:
Why clear, transparent bottle?
Ages well (in oak)?
Pretty common to have Sauternes before a meal starts in France?
“Entertain the whole palate!”
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The fermentation process is slow due to the high sugar levels.
Age well in oak barrels (sometimes for decades)
Process of making Sauternes from grapes attached by Botrytis cinerea
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Botrytis Infection
A fungal disease that causes fruit rot
Botrytis infection is not always predictable and preventable.
A mold that grows on ripe wine grapes in the vineyard under specific climate condition.
Rainy weather and high relative humidity promotes Botrytis gray mold
(Plantnatural.com)
https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/plant-disease/gray-mold/
http://whatcom.wsu.edu/ipm/manual/blue/botrytis.html
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Botrytis Cinerea
Two different kinds:
Gray rot, is the result of consistently wet (or humid) conditions, and typically results in the loss of the affected bunches.
occurs when drier conditions follow wetter, and can result in distinctive sweet dessert wines
“Not all rot is noble”
Gray Rot
Botrytis Cinerea: What Makes this mold noble?
More intense and concentrated sugars and fruit acids
Rich and complex flavors and aromas of tropical, soft citrus fruits, honey
Noble
Rot
Botrytis Cinerea
Fermentations of the high-sugar juices of Botrytis-affected fruit are hard to start and slow to progress!
Complicates wine making by making fermentation far more complex
Botrytis produces an anti-fungal that kills yeast
Fermentation may stop before the wine has reached sufficient/desired levels of alcohol
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Botrytis Cinerea
In addition to Sauternes (France), another prominent style:
Germany: Late harvest
Riesling
7-10% alcohol, 12-15% residual sugar
Botrytis-affected dessert wines made in California are modeled after French Sauternes and German late-harvest Rieslings.
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Hungarian Tokai, sometimes known as the origin of Noble Rot
Botrytis Cinerea
Working with or inducing Botrytis is financially risky
May lose the crop
May reduce the crop
Low yields
In the vineyard
Must per ton
Slow picking
Some grapes are more susceptible than others
Highly Susceptible:
Riesling, Chenin Blanc and Zinfandel
Least Susceptible:
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot
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Making Wine from Botrytis Affected Grapes
How remove the juice from raisined grapes?
Crushing is often skipped
Clusters are inspected for undesirable elements or activity
Slow pressing yields a thick syrup
The syrup is chilled and clarified
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Making Wine from Botrytis Affected Grapes
Clarification and stabilization
Aged in oak
Sauternes-style
Lengthy time in small oak barrels
Late-harvest Riesling style
Short time in large oak barrels or stainless steel tanks
Bottle aging
Can age for long periods
10 plus years are not uncommon
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Other Non-Fortified Non-Botrytis Dessert Wines
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Passito
Sometimes called Italy’s raisin wine
Passito wines are intensely flavored, complex wines made from partially raisined grapes:
Dried to raisins on the vine
Picked (early?) and then dried
On mats of straw or bamboo racks
In bunches under the rafters
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Passito
The must of the dried grapes is so concentrated that it slows fermentation
High in volatile acids
Two categories:
Younger, sweeter, wines: the fresh primary aromas
a more complex bouquet wine
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Ice Wine
Other Monikers:
Eiswein in Germanic countries
Germany, Austria
Vin de Glace in Luxembourg
Icewine in some English language locations
Canada, Oregon, Michigan
Cryoextracted wine
If done mechanically
Term of French Origin
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.
Ice Wine
When frozen grapes are pressed much of the water crystals stay behind in the press
The resulting must is higher in sugar and extracts than it would be under normal harvest conditions
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Fortified Dessert Wines - Sherry and Port Wines
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Week 5 Part TWO (Module B) Fortified Dessert Wine: Sherry and more
A Deliberately Oxidized Wine?
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Week 5 Part TWO (Module B) Fortified Dessert Wine: Sherry and more
The home of Sherry?
The type of Sherry grapes
Making different types of Sherry
The flor protects against oxidation.
Solera
Aging process of making some types of Sherry
Sherry like?
Montilla
Malaga
Marsala
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Sherry
A Deliberately Oxidized Wine?
(Image citation: GuildSomm)
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https://www.sherry.wine/news/introduction-wines-sherry-guild-sommeliers
Jerez
The home of Sherry
In southwestern Spain
Perfect conditions for growing grapes used for making sherry
The most dominant sherry grape is Palomino Fino
Other grape varieties: Moscatel and Pedro Ximénez
Sherry grapes:
The white Palomino Fino grape is the sherry grape par excellence, 90-95 %
Moscatel 3%
Pedro Ximénez 0.3%.
The most dominant sherry grape is Palomino Fino (used for dry wine making)
Sweet wine-making:
Moscatel and PX
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Making Sherry
The first phase in making sherry is identical to making white wine
The difference comes after fermentation, when the wine is put into oak casks
Here they are fortified with brandy, and left in the casks with air to spare
Flor may develop
Flor is often desired
Flor is a layer of yeast cells that form spontaneously on the surface of the wine
Sherries are fortified before oxidation!
Making Sherry
New cells are constantly formed and dead cells fall to the bottom.
The flor protects against oxidation, and imparts flavor
The degree and type of flor development decides which type of Sherry will be produced
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Flor yeast require precise living condition.
Temperature approximately 20C humidity less than 65% and alcohol content should be less than 16.
* When making sherry, flor development DECREASES oxidation!
Major Sherry Categories:
Fino & Manzanilla – biologically aged
Oloroso – oxidatively aged
Palo Cortado – intermediate style
Certain vineyards tend to produce certain categories
Sherry wines can be dry, naturally sweet or artificially sweetened through blending.
All made from Palomino Fino
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Sherry categories: Fino
Substantial flor development
15% of all Sherry production
The lightest of the Finos comes from Manzanilla (DO)
Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Almost salty, very pale and dry
Often drunk as a table wine
Many enjoy it with seafood.
(Wine Folly)
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Fino
Fino (at large)
A dry, pale white and yellow sherry wine produced within the D.O.
Light style of sherry
Exceeds Manzanilla many times in volume.
Growing in production and popularity
Relatively low alcohol
Potential competitors for "normal" white wines
Many bodegas are making them fresh and young in style for export.
Dry sherry wines are produced from the Palomino grape
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Amontillado
Sometimes classified as Oloroso
A Fino or Manzanilla that is allowed to age further in the Solera
Flor becomes less dominant
Oxidation starts to take place
Changes in color from golden yellow to amber, and becomes more concentrated with greater acidity
A "true" Amontillado has a dry, robust taste with a nutty, penetrating scent.
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Aging process
Provides continuity in style
Fractional blending
Soleras are only required for Fino and Manzanilla
Most sherries are subject to it.
Minimum age is three years.
Solera “Year” is age of oldest wine
Vintage Sherry seldom seen
Solera
System
Sherry is most often a fractionally blended wine
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Therefore in case a bottle reads “Solera 1870”, it means the wine was drawn off from a solera started in 1870 and of which, of course, cannot be determined the exact vintage because the system includes wines blended from that year on.
Main purpose is to provide continuity in style!
The system consists in stacking rows of casks one upon another, each row is called escala and contains a wines of a particular average age, the lowest row which is contact to the floor is called solera and contains the oldest wine. The row stacked upon solera is called 1st criadera, the next one is called 2nd criadera and so on until the highest row which is called last criadera.
Video Resource: The Pillars of Jerez by Gonzalez Byass (Soleras)
(citation: Tio Pepe)
Oloroso
Means "sweet smelling, fragrant"
Descriptive of the wine
Less expressive than Amontillado
In dry mature form there are often amazing nuances to it.
Luxurious in character and velvety in taste.
Subject to little or no flor growth
Greater air contact
More oxidized in character.
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Oloroso sherry is dark brown, rich bodied and medium sweet. Serve with desserts, nuts or fresh fruit.
Cream Sherry
Oloroso is often sweetened with a sweetening wine, and may then be labeled as
Cream Sherry
Harvey's Bristol Cream.
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*
Palo Cortado
Rare
When flor yeast dies unexpectedly and the wine begins to take on oxygen
Develops some flor
Too much flor for Oloroso status.
Characteristics of both Amontillado and Oloroso.
Delicate aroma of an aged Fino with the fully body of an Oloroso
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Video: The Wines of Sherry (11 mins) by GuildSomm
https://www.sherry.wine/news/introduction-wines-sherry-guild-sommeliers
Discussion Forum Question
Montilla-Moriles
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Montilla-Moriles
Often simply called Montilla
Sherry like
Pedro Ximénez grape
Same styles and terminology as Sherry
Except in Britain
Dry, Medium, Cream
Amontillado means in the Montilla style
Separate DO today
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Málaga (from Spain)
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Málaga
Traditionally Málaga was a dried grape wine
Today the wines are made using a number of different methods. Made with
Over-ripened grapes
Mat-dried grapes
Reduced must
Grape varieties
Pedro Ximénez, Moscatel, Doradilla, Rome, and Lairén
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Málaga
Two Primary Styles
Naturally Sweet Málaga wines
Málaga´s Liquor Wines
Fortified
Soleras are typically used
Not all Malaga wines are fortified!
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Marsala
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Marsala
One of the most well-known wines of Italy?
Commonly used for cooking and baking
Undervalued by many people.
Similar to Sherry and Madeira
Three different colors
Oro (golden); Ambra (amber); Rubino (ruby)
Marsala Ambra and Oro are produced with white grapes
Marsala Rubino is produced with red grapes
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Dessert WINE: Port Wine
Week 5 Part TWO (MODULE C)
A fortified wine from the harbor town of Oporto/Porto.
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Week 5 Part TWO (MODULE C)
Port Wine
History of Port Wine
Process of making Port wine
Five main styles of Red Port Wine
Plus a few other styles
Serving Port Wine
Video Resource: Making Port Wine by Taylor’s Port
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Port
English blockade of French harbors in 1678 led to a wine shortage
Popular when adding brandy to preserve the wine for export.
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Optional video resource: The History of Port Wine
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5pt9i0CFKM&t=101s
(Taylor’s Port)
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Port
Two general types:
Vintage Port/Glass Port
Bottled young and designed to age in the bottle
Wood Port
Aged in wooden casks for many years
Just 2% of Port wine is made into Vintage Port.
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Making Port
Blend of grapes
90 approved, 30 used, but 6 essential:
Touriga Francesa
Touriga Naçional
Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo)
Tinta Barroca
Tinta Amarela
Tinta Cão
The less common White Port, is made from white grapes
Viosinho, Malvasia Fina, Gouveio, Cédega, and Rabigato.
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Making Port
Hand picked and foot treaded
Open fermenters
Mixed with brandy 4-1
20% alcohol
Storage and bottling determines the rest
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Making Port
Main considerations:
Amount of time in wood
The desired level of
Fruit flavor
Nutty tones from wood
The grape varieties
Each style of Port is different in
Complexity, flavor profile, and potential uses
The styles are destined in large part by how long the wine has aged in wood before bottling, not to forget the grapes, of course . . .
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Port
Five major styles of Red Port
Ruby
Premium Ruby
Late Bottled Vintage (LBV)
Tawny
10-20-40 year Old Tawny
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Ruby Port
Very popular style
Often served as an aperitif, up, on-the-rocks, or in mixed drinks
Red port aged a minimum of three years in wood
Ready to drink when released.
Flavor intensity and price make it a good wine to use in cooking
Stays good for about three to four weeks after opening.
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Premium Ruby
Blend of younger vintages
Often called “vintage character”
Not bottle aged as vintage port is.
Will not throw a sediment
Broad appeal, consistent styles,
Excellent after dinner sipper
Or with cheese
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Premium Ruby
Vintage Character
A blend of higher quality Ruby Ports
Aged four to six years in the cask
Filtered to remove any sediment then bottled
Full-bodied and fruity wine.
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Late Bottled Vintage (LBV)
Two general styles
Traditional LBV
Bottled un-filtered, throwing a sediment as they age and develop in bottle.
Modern LBV
Filtered when bottled and not require decanting before consuming
Aged 4-6 years in barrels (woods)
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LBV (Late Bottled Vintage)
Modern LBV
Recent development, designed for those wanting
A vintage dated wine
Ready to drink at bottling
No sediment (to hassle with)
Last longer after opening
Traditional or Modern?
Usually hard to tell
Look for stopper cork (modern LBV) or “Traditional”
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Vintage Port
Vintage port: a port that is often expensive and declared as the best quality but only made about every 5 years.
Less than 3% of the production in the years declared
Very intensely concentrated and complex
Aged two years in the wood, then bottled
Best after 15 + years
Too much tannin and alcohol when young
Dessert wine, or sipper
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Aged Tawny
Tawny ports: Port that is made light in color and aged in large wooden oak casks for 10 years
Aged Tawny Ports’ different flavor profile
Delicate and multidimensional
Balance of fruit and mature wood
Oxidative and nutty
The longer the wine is aged the more of the nutty wood tones appear
After dinner drink, before, not with the coffee
Important sensory characteristics during long barrel aging
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More on Port . . .
Colheita
Tawny from a single vintage
Aged in wood minimum 7 years
Crusted/Crusting Port
A blend from several years
Aged in wood, then bottled unfiltered
Crust of sediment occasionally develops after 2-3 years in the bottle
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More on Port . . .
Single Quinta Vintage
Made from the grapes of one vineyard/one vintage
Chip port
White port
2-3 years in wood
RTD
Dessert wine serving
Served in smaller portions
A pour of 2-3 fluid ounces typically in the restaurants
White-style port: best served chilled
Red-style port: 55-68 Fahrenheit
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