task 1

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Task - Ride the Waves Introduction

You always thought you could be a surfer. One of the swashbucklers on the boat just happened to be a surf instructor. The Jolly Roger flag flew overhead as you grabbed the surf board. You quickly learn that you need to duck down under the wave as you head out. It wasn't just a face full of ocean surf, it was a firehose of salty water into your eyes, mouth, and nose. Enough

of this, this isn't the Hawaii Five-0 theme you were expecting. After forty waves and one five-second ride, you come out of the water looking like a drowned, harassed prisoner. You dry-off, change into a baggy white shirt, stripped pants, a vest, and a bandana. It's time to report to the Captain for your next task.

The Captain's Orders Read the log book Waves to get a basic foundation of waves and their role in the oceans. If you need more assistance, there is a computer on the Captain's desk. If you use the computer, make sure you make a note where you got your information. Answer the questions and complete the following tasks using the log book, a calculator, and the internet.

Objective Analyze data necessary to assess wave characteristics and parameters.

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Questions 1. Which of the following is true of swell?

created by weather effects

generated by earthquakes

swells are also classified as tsunamis

move in multiple wave trains

move as a single wave train

2. Which of these are restoring forces. gravitational forces between Earth and Moon

Earth’s gravity earthquakes

landslides

surface tension

wind

3. Which of the following are possible generating force(s) for waves.

gravitational forces between Earth and Moon |

Earth’s gravity

earthquakes

landslides

surface tension

wind

4. Which of these forces restores a capillary wave. gravitational forces between Earth and Moon

Earth’s gravity earthquakes

landslides

surface tension

wind

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5. Which of these forces generates a capillary wave. gravitational forces between Earth and Moon

Earth’s gravity earthquakes

landslides

surface tension

wind

6. Which of the following is true of an internal wave? Found at surface

Found along pycnoclines

Found along seafloor

7. Using Figure 1, label crest, trough, equilibrium surface, height, and wavelength.

Figure 1. Parts of a wave.

8. What are the number of wavelengths shown in the image above?

9. Which of the following would be considered a standing wave? Tsunami

Swell

Chop

Seiche

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Tides

10. Which of the following would be considered a progressive wave?

Tsunami

Swell

Chop

Seiche

Tides

11. Give equation for wave base and describe how it is measured. 12. If a wave has a wave length of 30 m, what is the wave base

depth? 13. If 4 wave lengths pass a point in 2 minutes, what is the wave

period? 14. How fast do tsunami travel?

15. What’s the average period of a tsunami? 16. What’s the average wavelength of a tsunami? 17. With a period of 10 seconds and a wavelength of 50 m, what is

the wave speed?

18. What happens to wave speed after a wave feels bottom and approaches shore?

19. What happens to wave height after a wave feels bottom and approaches shore?

20. What happens to wave length after a wave feels bottom and approaches shore?

21. What happens to wave period after a wave feels bottom and approaches shore?

22. At what ocean depths is a 30-m wave length wave considered a deep water wave?

23. At what ocean depths is a 30-m wave length wave considered NOT a deep water wave?

24. Which types of waves have the potential to have the largest height?

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25. Which of the following would be considered a deep-water wave in the open ocean?

Tsunami

Swell

Chop

Seiche in Pool/Lagoon/Bay

26. Which of the following will increase wind wave height in the open ocean?

Strong winds

Moderate winds

Weak winds

27. As a result, where in the world’s oceans do we get the largest open ocean wind waves? Why?

28. What type of interference causes rogue waves? constructive

destructive

29. Which direction does a rip current move? (Hint: time to do some outside research):

along the shore

towards the shore

away from the shore

30. What causes rip currents? jetty

headland

two longshore currents colliding

wave direction

31. Can they be predicted? Explain.

32. Which direction does a longshore current move? along the shore

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towards the shore

away from the shore

33. What cause(s) longshore currents? jetty

headland

two longshore currents colliding

wave direction

34. Which of the following is true for tsunami (pick all that apply):

deep-water wave

shallow-water wave

produced by earthquakes

produced by landslides

produced by strong winds

considered a rogue (episodic) wave

considered a standing wave

considered a progressive wave

35. What’s the average height of a tsunami in the open ocean? 36. Are tsunami dangerous in the open sea? What happens when

they reach shore?

37. Which types of waves have the smallest wavelength, height, and period? (Check the Log Book)

38. Which types of waves have the largest wavelength? (Check the Log Book)

39. Which types of waves have the longest period? (Check the Log Book)

40. Where is your Pirate Ship headed? (Check the Chapter 2 introduction). What are the coordinates of the landmark?

How to Submit Your Task

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Answer the questions on a word processing document and complete Figure 1. Once you have finished the assigned task, submit the document and Figure 1 to the Captain's dropbox.