Beverage Trend Paper

2015

Kendall College Bev 201

Juan Pablo Madrigal

TRENDS IN BEVERAGE | VERMOUTH [ ] We explore the comeback of a seemingly forgotten classic aperitif and how it’s helping shape the modern craft cocktail scene.

Times have certainly changed since we saw the first iterations of cocktails craze the thirsty

patrons of Jerry Thomas’ bars. The beverage scene has seen times of temperance and self-

indulgence but also times of measure, just like the times we live on right now. In these times

when people are being mindful about what they drink but more important how much they drink

is when creativity starts to play a crucial role in shaping where the industry is heading; simply

because during temperance there is not a lot of drinks going around so there is really no need to

create anything new and at the other side of the spectrum, when people are drinking

indiscriminately no one really cares about anything special unless it intoxicates faster – I’m

looking at you 80s.

Lucky for us, we live in a day and age when mixologists are constantly innovating and

experimenting with previously unthinkable combinations and flavor profiles. On that respect, I

want to quickly shift out focus towards what is happening in the cocktail scene and how we are

transitioning from the “new age” era of cocktails with its blenders at full throttle and unnaturally

colorful icy cocktails back to the basics of what a cocktail really means aka “classic cocktails” –

not to dismiss frozen cocktails which are also seeing a comeback -. Classic cocktail ingredients

and spirits that were almost forgotten, such as vermouth, applejack, absinthe and bitter liqueurs

are being brought back by incredibly passionate and knowledgeable bartenders around the world

and creating their own interpretations of classic cocktails that were also almost forgotten

The result of this unsurprising transition is a new appreciation for beautifully crafted cocktails

and complex flavor profiles that were, for a while, considered old and outdated. These flavors

come from equally crafted ingredients that for quite some time sat at a back corner of liquor shelf

collecting dust. In the next pages, I will talk about one such ingredient: Vermouth.

BASICS

To be able to talk about what part Vermouth is playing in cocktails today and how it’s shaping

the industry we must first understand what it is.

According to Martin Doudoroff from Vermouth101, the word “vermouth” comes from the old

German word for “wormwood”, which was once one of its primary infused botanicals and some

versions still employ a little of the stuff. Vermouth is a fortified aromatized wine native to the

Torino region of Italy – aromatized because it has been infused with botanicals – and even

though it is a fortified wine, it is considered an aperitif due to its lower alcohol content. In and

around it’s native country is mostly taken neat or over a little ice, unlike in America where is

mostly used as an ingredient in mixed drinks.

Vermouth is considerably popular in Europe and was widely appreciated in America in the early

days of the cocktail but after prohibition it was relegated to the back of the shelf and became

quite misunderstood; thanks to this few Americans –up until this day – knew how to use it or

even appreciated it. Again, Vermouth101 hits the nail by saying that “today we’re living in a new

“golden age” of vermouth with classic brands revitalized and new, experimental vermouths

emerging both from the traditional European sources and from upstart American artisans.”

Vintage add for Martini &

Old world vermouths

Left to right: Punt E Mes, Carpano Antica, Lillet Blanc, Noilly Prat

QUICK GUIDE TO STYLES

Vermouths can be either red wine or white wine based, although some styles may take the

unfermented fruit juice and add alcohol for a mistelle base. Regardless of the base, the results are

a Dry White, a Sweet Red or a Sweet White and their applications are endless: Dry Whites are

the base for Martinis, Sweet Reds are the base for Manhattans and Sweet Whites – which are

mostly taken straight – can be cross-used in both.

WHO MAKES THEM

Traditional Vermouth has been mad for more than two

centuries in Italy and France, making red and white

versions respectively. The predominant makers are

household names that have set the standards for quality

and style and are a must for any bar that considers itself

serious about cocktails.

In Italy, the first branded Vermouth was a red variety made by Carpano who still holds a

privileged position and one of bartenders’ favorites. Punt E Mes is a bitter sweet variation by

Carpano. Cinzano is also one of the earliest producers and make a sweet white, a sweet red and

an extra dry. Martini & Rossi is unquestionably the top international seller known for its dry

vermouths but mostly from its rosso.

In France, Noilly Prat is the most notable brand; being only 14 years younger than Carpano it is

the second oldest branded vermouth. Noilly Prat is mostly known for its white dry vermouths.

Also worth mentioning is Lillet from Bordeaux, they make Lillet blanc a golden hued medium

bodied vermouth

In America, Vya is pushing the boundaries of vermouth production and here is where vermouth

really starts to trend.

TRENDING

Like I mentioned before, vermouth has been made for over 200 years and almost the same way at

that. However, with the recent cocktail boom came a new school of American producers that

have very interesting takes on the original aperitif. One of such producers is Vya, that has been

tweeking and tinkering with the original recipes and coming up with modern iterations.

“These guys are making a product that historically has

been secret about its formulations,” Doudoroff says

““You don’t really know what you’re buying anymore

when you buy vermouth, and perhaps that’s a

redeeming characteristic. It’s become a real loosey-

goosey thing, and as it goes on, the more

differentiated these new vermouths are going to become.” What does this mean? Basically that

there really is not a lot to go by when making vermouth which leaves a lot of room for

interpretation and creativity; I mean, these recipes have been going around for such a long time

and are made at such an industrial level that at this point, they are more of a marketing strategy

and sales differentiator than an actual guideline for a style. There certainly is a specific profile to

be set as a goal, but the new world producers are finding new and interesting ways to get there.

Vya Extra Dry Vermouthcame out from California in 1999 followed by Sutton Cellars Brown

Label Vermouth, Imbue Bittersweet Vermouth after that. Soon Oregon will make its debut with

Patrick Taylor from Cana’s Feast Winery. According to Imbibe Magazine “Taylor is designing

New world vermouths

Left to right: Imbue Bittersweet, Atsby line, Vya Sweet Vermouth

his vermouth to be dark and earthy, using a base of red wine and a proprietary blend of

botanicals that will include traditional ingredients as well as spices from Africa and South

America.”

The West Coast will also dive into the vermouth pool soon with Atsby Vermouth from New

York and four different vermouths from Brooklyn under the label Bespoke Vermouth. Finally,

the craft bitters and liqueurs Bittermens also from New York will introduce two vermouths into

the market later this year. It is obvious that the movement is seeing an explosion unlike it has

seen before along other libations like homemade bitters and amaros.

In Europe vermouth is mostly taken neat or over ice because that is the way it’s been done from

the start but Americans, who lost the palate and appreciation for the aperitif a long time ago, it is

best used in cocktails and we see it in many applications covering the whole range of spirits from

Gin to Bourbon.

With the addition of new recipes and styles of vermouth also

come new cocktails and interpretations of old classics. Check out

Saveur’s video “6 Manhattans in 60 seconds” for a quick

rundown of different uses and profiles. Of course, there is a new

appreciation for the stuff so now you see more people in

American bars ordering vermouth neat but in parts of Europe

there are even bars devoted to the stuff. Bon Appetit points our

attention to vermuterias in Barcelona like Bodega 1900 from the

Adrià family. A similar concept is coming to Chicago soon with

Artemisa

From Bon Appetit

American Light Cocktail

Punt E Mes and Aperol topped with club soda

References

American Light Recipe - Bon Appetit. (2015). Retrieved June 1, 2015, from

http://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/american-light

Clark, P. (2009). Elements: Vermouth. Retrieved June 1, 2015, from

http://imbibemagazine.com/elements-vermouth/

Clark, P. (2012). Domestic Vermouth. Retrieved June 1, 2015, from

http://imbibemagazine.com/domestic-vermouth/

Doudoroff, M. (n.d.). Vermouth 101. Retrieved June 10, 2015, from http://vermouth101.com/index.html

Lynch, D. (2015). A Guide to Drinking Vermouth - Bon Appetit. Retrieved June 10, 2015, from

http://www.bonappetit.com/drinks/cocktails/article/vermouth-drinking-guide