investigative report

Textile Wastewater: Water Pollution as a Result of Textile Dyes and Finishes 2

Problem Statement

The textile industry is recognized as a polluting industry by all members of the field, and

has recently been examined and studied in order to create ways of production and merchandising

that lessen the amount of environmental degradation present at the moment. The process of

applying special finishes or dye to a textile product introduces harsh chemicals and other

unnatural elements into the water used throughout the process. Introducing harsh chemicals

through treatment creates a highly polluted wastewater, of which diminishes the amount of clean

water available. Cleaning the wastewater uses harsh chemicals that further pollute surrounding

areas. Not only does this issue have no solid solution, this problem can be considered wicked

because it heavily impacts the amount of clean water available throughout the world, and can

cause other long-term ecological issues such as human illnesses, polluted irrigation for crops,

and diminishing aquatic life and vegetation.

Characteristic #1: Variable Problem Definition

Before the groundbreaking production innovations created during the Industrial

Revolution, clothing production was slow and tedious, resulting in high prices. After machines

such as the power loom were created, production became much faster and more efficient, causing

the prices of garments to lessen and commercial fashion to emerge. The discovery of synthetic

dyes in 1856 by W.H. Perkins, enhanced the quality of clothing by providing a wider variety of

colors with strong color fastness. This innovation lead to result in a developing desire for

commercial apparel, further increasing the production levels (Kant, 2012). Some of the negative

environmental impacts caused by the textile industry are a result of this discovery.

Textile Wastewater: Water Pollution as a Result of Textile Dyes and Finishes 3

Across the world, water pollution has been an ongoing ecological problem caused from a

plethora of elements. However, the process of manufacturing textiles with synthetic color dyes

and finishes accounts for 17 to 20 percent of industrial water pollution. Because of the high

levels of chemical toxins introduced into the water, textile production is the second highest

polluter of clean water after agriculture (Kant, 2012). The processing, dyeing, and finishing of

textiles requires a substantial amount of water, of which becomes mixed with chemicals and

synthetic dyes to create a polluted mixture expelled as wastewater. For example, producing a pair

of jeans uses 1,800 gallons of water on average, while a T-shirt uses 700 gallons on average

(Scott, 2015). This showcases the immense amount of water necessary for mass production.

Due to the depth of issues caused by the wastewater formulated from textile production,

it is difficult to precisely provide a definition for this issue. Textile effluent can cause significant

amounts of environmental degradation as well as human illness (Kant, 2012). The textile

industry uses more than 8,000 chemicals worldwide to produce fabrics. These chemicals include

acids, bleaches, heavy metal dyes and many others (Scott, 2015). If wastewater is not properly

treated, toxic chemicals can infiltrate sources of clean water through waste stream flows as well

as acidic rain. Wastewater streams, such as sewage pipes, can be corroded by the harsh

chemicals in the water creating places for leakage into the surrounding ground, making way for

pH levels in the soil to change and cause soil degradation. If wastewater is allowed to flow into

drains and clean water rivers, it can affect the quality of drinking water making it unfit for

consumption. Harsh chemicals can also be spread by the process of evaporation thereby polluting

the air living organisms use to breathe. Inhaling these toxins or absorbing them through the skin

can result in health related problems such as allergic reactions (Kant, 2012). In particular, the

Textile Wastewater: Water Pollution as a Result of Textile Dyes and Finishes 4

specific type dye called malachite, has severe effects on individuals immune and reproductive

systems, as well as cause DNA fragmentation (Saini, 2017).

Wastewater also has detrimental effects on aquatic life and vegetation. Colloidal matter

and color dye physically change the appearance of the water by changing the color and

decreasing the transparency of which prevents the penetration of sunlight into the water. The

lack of available sunlight prevents aquatic vegetation from enduring photosynthesis, resulting in

an imbalance in oxygen levels, of which negatively impacts both marine and freshwater animals

(Saini, 2007). This negative impact can lead to further ecological damages in food chain

systems.

Stakeholders

Areas of the world that are dependent on textile manufacturing as a source of income

from international trade suffer the most from the effects of pollution. According to

nongovernmental organizations, parts of India and China are among the most polluted due to

their high levels of textile production and relaxed environmental laws. More specifically, the city

in southern India, known as Tirupurr, contributes to a substantial amount of textile goods sold in

the United States. Although economically beneficial, the pollution from the large number of

textile factories has caused the Noyyal River, a nearby water source, to “become foamy and

discolored,” resulting in rising levels of illness in citizens and decreasing the level of agricultural

production (Scott, 2015). Wastewater is detrimental to crop production if allowed into the

irrigation lines that water the fields. For example, small villages in India, specifically along the

Lisada River, have been using toxic black water as a source of irrigation for their crops. The

long-term use of this polluted water has resulted in health issues for the villagers, such as high

levels of plaque on teeth and intense joint paint (Kant, 2012).

Textile Wastewater: Water Pollution as a Result of Textile Dyes and Finishes 5

Areas of the world that have harsher environmental protection laws, can better control the

movement and treatments of wastewater, allotting for less pollution than areas with little to no

concern for environmental protection. Istanbul, Turkey is an example of an area that has strong

controls on water usage. Discharge standards for wastewater are controlled by the Istanbul Water

and Sewage Administration, of which inspects industrial wastewater as well as requires factories

to pretreat their wastewater to meet certain standards. As a result of this administration, 116

plants have been made to specifically treat wastewater from the textile industry (Tufekci, Sivri &

Toroz, 2017). Expanding surveillance to other areas that produce textiles will be beneficial to

help reduce the total amount of pollution in the future.

Characteristic #2: Variable Solutions

The harsh reality is that water is a “finite resource [that is] becoming scare” due to the

fact that “water pollution is indeed a serious problem in most countries” (Kant, 2012). The

continuous accumulation of wastewater is due to the high monetary expense it costs factories or

cleaning centers to treat the polluted water, as well as the lack of efficient methods used to clean

the water. Some resolutions have been created by scientists and researchers in attempts to

diminish the level of pollution created by the textile industry; however, no one resolution can be

used to completely resolve this problem. The plethora of issues generated from wastewater make

it difficult to determine one systematic approach as a solution. Despite there not being a defined

solution, it is extremely important to begin implementing solution theories to diminish the

present environmental impacts, and prevent the future.

Solution 1: Treatment of Wastewater

Special removal treatments are added to the wastewater from textile production factories,

in order to eliminate a large amount of the toxins placed in the water from dye processing.

Textile Wastewater: Water Pollution as a Result of Textile Dyes and Finishes 6

Different styles of treatment are necessary due to the varying classification of synthetic dyes;

some are more problematic than others. The amount of dye that binds to the material compared

to the amount that is left in the water depends on the chemical composition of a particular dye.

There is current research being done to strengthen the dye-fibre attachment by changing the

binding agents between the dye ion and fibre, with the goal to minimalize dye waste (Saini,

2017). Wastewater treatment can be classified in separate categories according to the method

type. Types of treatments include irradiation, filtration processes, absorption, oxidative

processes, coagulation, and biological methods (Saini, 2017). Absorption is done by transferring

the dyes from the water onto the surface of a highly porous absorbent; the most common is

activated carbon. Once at capacity, the absorbent can be burned or regenerated. This method has

been found to be one of the most effective and practical because it is economically achievable.

Biological treatment involves the degradation of the dye material through the use of

microorganisms like fungi. This treatment is commonly used on a larger scale than other

treatments (Saini, 2017). Coagulation methods introduce flocculants, or organic polymers to the

wastewater to neutralize the charge in the dye. Once the charge is neutralized, the liquid dye can

form particles large enough to cluster and become filterable. Basically, coagulants achieve the

jobs of absorption, neutralization and inner particle bridging. This method of treatment has been

the most successful pretreatment method (Zafar, Tausif, Mohsin, Ahmad & Zia-ul-Haq, 2015).

Potato starch serves as a certain type of coagulant used in wastewater treatments. This particular

type of starch can serve as both a coagulant and flocculent due to its bi-polymer properties, of

which also causes eco-friendly excess waste. This particular starch does not alter the pH level of

the water, unlike chemically based coagulants, and requires a lower concentration, compared to

metal salts, to produce the same level of effectiveness (Zafar, Tausif, Mohsin, Ahmad & Zia-ul-

Textile Wastewater: Water Pollution as a Result of Textile Dyes and Finishes 7

Haq, 2015). This is just one unique approach to improve sustainability measures within

treatment issues.

Solution 2: Alternative Natural Fabrics and Finishes

As a response to wicked environmental problems designers and scientists have

collaborated to seek out cellulose from different types of green materials to act as a replacement

for synthetically made textile fabrics. Scientists have tested the cellulose from naturally made

beverages like, green tea, black tea, milk, and coconut milk. Out of the choices compared, fabric

made from the bacterial cellulose of green tea best mimicked the physical and aesthetic

characteristics of natural cellulosic fabrics (Ng & Wang, 2016). Using natural materials to create

fabric is also beneficial because the fabric and its waste is completely biodegradable, which

contributes to its low environmental impact and cost effectiveness (Ng & Wang, 2016). There is

an infatuation with the idea that a type of fashion in which the materials are self-grown and the

creative processes are based on creating sustainably for the future.

The growing focus on sustainability practices in the fashion industry has increased

competition throughout industry players to obtain the latest technical textile innovations.

Ecofriendly antimicrobial finishing of textile products is a new production trend being studied by

researchers and industrialists because of the lower environmental impact it has compared to

chemically based finishes. Natural agents such as Chitosan and Sericin are being studied to

determine their efficiency and beneficial properties served as a textile finish (Joshi, Ali &

Purwar, 2008). Chitosan, a natural, biodegradable polymer derived from the marine shells and

mollusks, is used as an antistatic, antimicrobial, antibacterial finish for fabrics. In addition, it

helps improve the pigmentation of dyes in the treated fabric. Sericin, a natural macromolecular

protein from silk fibers, serves as a finish to increase a fabrics ability to be hydroscopic,

Textile Wastewater: Water Pollution as a Result of Textile Dyes and Finishes 8

resistance to sunlight and oxidation, and antibacterial features (Joshi, Ali & Purwar, 2008). Other

natural agents include Neem extract as insect resistant finish and Aloe Vera as an antifungal and

antibacterial finish. However, the application of natural products as textile finishes is criticized

because materials require complex mixtures of several element combinations of which vary

vastly.

Solution 3: Mindfulness (brand management)

In addition to the technological advances in the scientific methods used to reduce and

prevent the polluting factors of textile production, changes in industry practices, such as

improved brand management, can aide the ecological impact the industry generates overall.

Better enforcement of environmental regulations as well as lower cost reagent substitutes are

required to make changes in industry practices (Scott, 2015). To reduce the level of pollution,

better product stewardship by industry partners needs to be practiced through devices such as

purchasing controls, and supply chain regulations. Sharing of industry production methods can

help raise public awareness of issues related with the industry and may cause individuals to shop

more mindfully (Scott, 2015). The level of consumer awareness can be positively correlated to a

more mindful view and decreased levels of over consumerism.

Characteristic #3: Solutions have no endpoint

The problems associated with wastewater cannot be completely eliminated due to the

depth of impact it has on multiple ecological categories. The large selection of dyes and finishes

makes it difficult to choose a specific solution to the overall problem, because each polluting

factor requires a different approach method to fix it. In addition, some solutions offered could

present results that unintentionally impact another area of the environment and lead to more

problems

Textile Wastewater: Water Pollution as a Result of Textile Dyes and Finishes 9

For example, the practice of using natural resources for special textile finishes can cause

unforeseen problems with the level of natural material extraction necessary to produce these

finishes. If this method becomes widely used, over extraction of the natural resources listed

above could occur (Joshi, Ali & Purwar, 2008). There is a possibility that other wicked problems

could arise in different industries as a result from increasing extraction of these resources.

However, a large reason wicked problems continuously maintain their status is due to the

lack of government involvement with environmental problems and lack of industry mindfulness.

If wastewater is to become eliminated there is call for better enforcement of environmental

pollution regulations in developing countries which typically have relaxed industrial laws (Scott,

2015). The absence of governmental control allows pollution to continue, and denies the chance

that any solution could be implemented to solve the problem. Industry players also hold a role as

a leader to prevent their production method from being harsh to the environment, but often fail to

do so. Corporate wealth is a major factor preventing companies from practicing product

stewardship. Big businesses continue to support a culture of materialist desires which allows the

production level of products to be maintained, and yet again prevents the possibility of new

solutions to be tested.

New problem solving methods need to be created continuously to match the pace of the

changing environment. Solution methods that have caused unintended results when applied to

wastewater problems, also require implementation of newly adapted ideas to solve the new issue

and the latter.

Characteristic #4: Solutions pose irreversible effects

It is hard to determine what environmental degradation caused by untreated wastewater

will look like in future years because more and more problems with water pollution may arise

Textile Wastewater: Water Pollution as a Result of Textile Dyes and Finishes 10

through testing out solutions to the issue. However, obvious negative ecological impacts due to

ill disposal or lack of treatment of wastewater have created irreversible affects on the water

supply chain, aquatic life, and human health. Solids from wastewater have caused a permenant

depletion of fish populations in polluted streams because the excess solids from production get

stuck in the gills of fish resulting in death or stunted growth. Their reproduction levels are also

lessened from the lack of sunlight available for photosynthesis for aquatic vegetation causing a

lack of food for fish (Tufekei, Sivri & Toroz, 2017). These affects cannot be reversed and may

cause more issues to arise. It is also difficult to measure the extent of both irreversible factors

and solution effectiveness because wastewater will continue to cause environmental problems

not yet accounted for; these could skew the level of validity previous measurements suggested.

Characteristic #5: Unique Due to differing climates, different areas of the world have access to diverse resources.

Countries that contain the resources needed to develop textiles can differ in their needs, based on

the specific problem formulated from the particular category of production. An approach to a

solution needed at textile production mills in India may differ greatly from an approach to solve

problems in United States, due to environmental specifics and government regulations. The

United States has much stricter laws concerning ecological health than India, and therefore may

address wastewater problems more directly and promptly because of the heightened level of

awareness. Technological advances of developed countries lead to vastly different solutions

compared to developing countries that lack the same level of technology. Wastewater is truly a

unique problem because of its adverse effects on water pollution of which support the growth of

other wicked problems; it acts as chain-link between the related concerns. This problem is also

unique because of its direct relation to consumerism. Individuals choose to represent themselves

through material goods, especially clothing, which has increased the desire for more variety and

Textile Wastewater: Water Pollution as a Result of Textile Dyes and Finishes 11

color in garments (Kant, 2012). Most consumers are not aware of the impact their decisions to

consume has on the environment. Lack of mindfulness in consumers propels this industry

forward and does nothing to halt the growth of production needed to match the level of products

wanted and then purchased.

Characteristic #6: Urgent

What will happen if the world fails to acknowledge the issues created by wastewater or

does not reduce the use of water in the textile industry? Water pollution levels will continue to

create a plethora of issues. Problems with human health will worsen with higher amounts of

illness due to increased levels of pollution. As stated above, individuals exposed to the harsh

chemicals in wastewater though air pollution can suffer negative physical consequences such as

allergies and birth defects. In addition, the high levels of phosphates and sulfates from chemical

toxins in the water, can lead anywhere between temporary digestive problems to serious long-

term illness (Tufekei, Sivri & Toroz, 2017). To prevent an epidemic breakout of human illness,

solutions need to be implemented immediately to reduce wastewater. Even if the solution is slow

paced or not the most efficient, the implementation of it can create gradual positive changes for

the environment and spur further theories for solutions.

Personal Reflection

At the beginning of this report I was highly unaware of the specific ways textile

production caused ecological damage; I only knew it caused some level of pollution, as all

industries do. Shockingly, I found there to be multiple ways this industry could cause harm to the

environment. I learned that the chemicals used in production and treatments can lead to illness in

both humans and animals, create blocks that stop photosynthesis in aquatic ecosystems, and

negatively affect the amount of clean water available. Some of these issues are more serious than

Textile Wastewater: Water Pollution as a Result of Textile Dyes and Finishes 12

others, and their depth of harshness can vary depending on which area of the world production is

happening. The large amount of problems associated with production methods of textile goods

concerns me due to the fact that it seems almost impossible to stop, especially in a world fueled

by consumerism and over consumption. I believe there must be a change in regulatory matters in

productions, either by government agencies or industry players. More regulation has to be the top

method of creating change on a larger scale compared to other solutions. Other solutions

presented only seem to focus on one aspect, while controls over the industry can target the whole

production and treatment method.

Another solution that can cause widespread change is an advanced awareness from

consumers. As an individual who partakes in the consumption of textiles, I have learned how

important it is to be mindful of the types of products I choose to buy. Becoming aware of the

methods used to create certain products I buy, has caused me to reevaluate their necessity, and

ask myself is buying this product is worth the environmental impact used to make it? The more

amount of individuals that raise their personal awareness, the more likely rates of consumption

are to lower. This will result in a fewer amounts of products being created, diminishing the

overall ecological and economical costs of manufacturing.

On a lower scale, natural resources can be used to replace unnatural chemicals being used

to treat wastewater or dye the clothes. I thought it was interesting how scientists have begun

using cellulose from green tea to create fabric that has little to no negative impacts on the

environment. I found this methodology intriguing and hopeful. Although this method approaches

problems on a lower scale, I believe it a beginning for further research to be conducted on ways

pollution can be lowered or even eliminated from the textile industry.

Textile Wastewater: Water Pollution as a Result of Textile Dyes and Finishes 13

After writing this review I have become more familiar with the specific ways clothing

production can harm the environment, but have also seen the hope in solutions for the future. I

have been encouraged by curiosity to also try and further my research, and come up with

personal solutions. I am eager to see where future research will take scientist, and look forward

to seeing the technological innovations that occur in throughout my lifetime.

Textile Wastewater: Water Pollution as a Result of Textile Dyes and Finishes 14

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bioactive agents based on natural products [Abstract]. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile

Research, 34, 295-304. Retrieved April 24, 2018, from

http://nopr.niscair.res.in/bitstream/123456789/6083/1/IJFTR 34(3) 295-304.pdf

Kant, R. (2012). Textile dyeing industry an environmental hazard. Natural Science,04(01), pp.

22-26. doi:10.4236/ns.2012.41004

Ng, F. M., & Wang, P. W. (2016). Natural Self-grown Fashion from Bacterial Cellulose: A

Paradigm Shift Design Approach in Fashion Creation. Design Journal, 19(6), 837-855.

doi:10.1080/14606925.2016.1208388

Sanini, R.D. (2017) Textile organic dyes: polluting effects and elimination methods from textile

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http://cen.acs.org/articles/93/i41/Cutting-Textile-Pollution.html

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