historic perspectives of fashion

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FMD 456 Historical Perspectives of Fashion

Study Guide

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Dr. Marie Botkin

California State University Long Beach

Subject

CH 2: Mesopotamian and Egyptian Dress

CH 3: Crete and Greece

CH 4: Etruria and Rome

CH 5: Early Middle Ages

CH 6: Late Middle Ages

Ch 7: Italian Renaissance

Ch 8: Northern Renaissance

Ch 9: 17th Century 1600-1700

CH 10: 18th Century 1700-1790

CH 11: Directoire/ Empire Period 1790-1820

CH 12: Romantic Period 1820-1850

CH 13: Crinoline Period 1850-1870

CH 14: Bustle Period 1870-1900

CH 15: Edwardian and WWI 1900-1920

CH 16: 1920s and 1930s

CH 17:The New Look 1950s

CH 18: 60s and 70s 1960-1980

CH 19: 1980s and 1990s

CH 20: 2000

Final Paper Presentations

Final Paper Presentations

Final Paper Presentations

Final Paper Presentations

CH 2: Mesopotamian and Egyptian Dress

1. Chapter Vocabulary. This is for study purposes only. You do not need to write the definitions here.

Kaunas

Chignon

Fillet

Tunic

Loincloth

Schenti

Kalasiris

Nemes headdress

King Tut

Hatshepsut

Nefertiti

2. Slide identification

Identify the garment(s) and period in each of the slides shown. The slides are found at the end of each Powerpoint presentation or in the video lectures.

SLIDE

GARMENTS

PERIOD

1.

The Bust: a statue of a woman with hair like a heavy wig and with heavy eye makeup

Egyptian

2.

Sumerian Votive wearing Kaunakes

Mesopotamian

3.

Akkadian: The head with textured beard

Mesopotamian

4.

Wall paintings with heavy Egyptian eye makeup and beaded round collar gowns

Egyptian

5.

Colorful gold collar necklace

Egyptian

6.

Scarab Beetle with tiny inlaid jewelries

Egyptian

7.

relief sculpture of the Mesopotamian beard

Mesopotamian

8.

Sculpture of pleats on sheer fabric

Egyptian

9.

Fabric of bead net dress that worn by women in the upper class

Egyptian

10.

Wall painting with Schenti worn by fishermen

Egyptian

3. Contemporary Inspirations

Search the internet for current designers who use the past in their contemporary collections. Make sure to note their names and include three sentences or more of what it is that you see reinterpreted here. There should be five examples included for each chapter.

Example:

Christian Dior Spring 2004 Couture Collection - Vogue

Designer:

Christian Dior Spring 2004

Inspiration:

Egyptian styles have clearly inspired Dior in this ensemble. The model is wearing a dress that is printed with various symbols of Egyptian culture that would have appeared on wall paintings of the period. She is also wearing a broad Egyptian collar necklace and heavy makeup that emphasizes the eyes. The overall look is modernized with the geometric hairstyle, Native American face paint, and use of turquoise stones.

Designer:

Inspiration:

Designer:

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CH 3: Crete and Greece

1. Chapter Vocabulary. This is for study purposes only. You do not need to write the definitions here.

Fresco

Hetairi

Perizoma

Chiton

Chlamys

Himation

Ionic chiton

Doric chiton

4. Slide identification

Identify the garment(s) and period in each of the slides shown.

SLIDE

GARMENTS

PERIOD

1.

white marble, a common hairstyle of ancient Greece that featured with wavy hair and headband wraps around it

Ancient Greece

2.

Giant statue that looks very realistic and like real human

Ancient Greece

3.

The wall painting with bared breasts women, dolphins, and snakes that represents snake goddess

Minoan

4.

A woman wearing chiton

Ancient Greece

5.

A statue of Pharaoh

Egyptian

6.

Sumerian Votive wearing Kaunakes

Mesopotamia

7.

Wall painting of woman with dark eyeliner, perfume cone, and big collar around neck

Egyptian

8.

Realistic statue with good drapery clothings

Ancient Greece

9.

Ancient safety pin for attaching chiton

Ancient Greece

10.

Famous honeybee symbol

Minoan

3. Contemporary Inspirations

Search the internet for current designers who use the past in their contemporary collections. Make sure to note their names and include three sentences or more of what it is that you see reinterpreted here. There should be five examples included for each chapter.

Beauty : Look good in gladiator shoes | The New Times | Rwanda

Designer:

casa and company

Inspiration:

Gladiator sandals have been inspired by Greek gladiator's sandals, which are worn by both men and women. This woman is wearing sandals that have been replicated from the gladiator’s sandals of the Greek culture, which have been observed in most of the Greek paintings. She is also wearing a dress that has been inspired by Greek fashion ideas. The dress is a replica of Greek drapes. Her overall look has been modernized with the use of current hairstyles, a modern handbag, and the use modern clothing style.

Designer:

Inspiration:

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CH 4: Etruria and Roman Dress

1. Chapter Vocabulary. This is for study purposes only. You do not need to write the definitions here.

Clavi

Segmental

Pallium

Paludamentum

Turban

Tebenna

Nautilus

Toga

Sinus

Umbo

Paenula

Sublunar

Strophium

Palla

Stola

4. Slide identification

Identify the garment(s) and period in each of the slides shown.

SLIDE

GARMENTS

PERIOD

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

3. Contemporary Inspirations

Search the internet for current designers who use the past in their contemporary collections. Make sure to note their names and include two sentences or more of what it is that you see reinterpreted here. There should be five examples included for each chapter.

20 Chapter 4: Etruria and Rome ideas | rome, roman clothes, ancient rome

Designer:

Jet-Setter and Boheme

Inspiration:

Jet-setter and Boheme have mostly been inspired by historical clothing to design their classic and stylish designs. This model is wearing a dress that is designed to be similar to that of ancient Roman women's clothing. The dress embraces the ancient roman clothing patterns through the way it is long and wrapped up to nicely fit the individuals. The look has been modernized by wearing silver bracelets.

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Inspiration:

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CH 5: Early Middle Ages

1. Chapter Vocabulary. This is for study purposes only. You do not need to write the definitions here.

Pelican/pelice

Tippets

Bliaut

Barbette/fillet

Cote

Surcote

4. Slide identification

Identify the garment(s) and period in each of the slides shown.

SLIDE

GARMENTS

PERIOD

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

3. Contemporary Inspirations

Search the internet for current designers who use the past in their contemporary collections. Make sure to note their names and include three sentences or more of what it is that you see reinterpreted here. There should be five examples included for each chapter.

Valentino Adds A Byzantine Touch to its Magical, Medieval Couture  Collection - Fashionista

Designer:

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli

Inspiration:

The early middle ages styles have truly inspired Valentino in this ensemble. The model is wearing a dress that is designed with different symbols of the early middle age culture that is mostly observed on paintings. Moreover, the styling is also similar to that of the early middle ages in that it is made of an under tunic and an outer tunic, and a snakehead to make them look more stunning.

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CH 6: Late Middle Ages

1. Chapter Vocabulary. This is for study purposes only. You do not need to write the definitions here.

Herigaut

Houppelande

Garnache

Tabard

Liripipe

Pourpoint

Dagging

Poulaine

Gown

Plastron

Codpiece

Henin

4. Slide identification

Identify the garment(s) and period in each of the slides shown.

SLIDE

GARMENTS

PERIOD

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

3. Contemporary Inspirations

Search the internet for current designers who use the past in their contemporary collections. Make sure to note their names and include three sentences or more of what it is that you see reinterpreted here. There should be five examples included for each chapter.

10+ Modern inspiration of Late Middle Ages, 1300-1500 ideas | late middle  ages, fashion, middle ages

Designer:

Jean-Paul Gaultier

Inspiration:

The late middle ages style has inspired Paul's design in this outfit. This model is wearing a dress that is designed in a similar manner, such as the late middle age women's clothing. The dress is designed to fit the upper half of the body and be flowing in the lower half of the body, just like the design of the late middle age women's clothing. The dress's overall style is modernized with silver alignments to give the dress a more stunning look and be look more fitting.

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CH 7 : Italian Renaissance

1. Chapter Vocabulary. This is for study purposes only. You do not need to write the definitions here.

Camicia

Chopines

Codpiece

Ferronière

Bases

guardaroba

4. Slide identification

Identify the garment(s) and period in each of the slides shown.

SLIDE

GARMENTS

PERIOD

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

3. Contemporary Inspirations

Search the internet for current designers who use the past in their contemporary collections. Make sure to note their names and include three sentences or more of what it is that you see reinterpreted here. There should be five examples included for each chapter.

Valentino Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection | Fab Fashion Fix

Designer:

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli

Inspiration:

Grazia and Piccioli's designs have mostly been inspired by historical clothing to design their modern clothes. This model is wearing a dress designed to be similar to the dresses worn during the Italian renaissance period. Like during the Italian Renaissance, the dress has been designed with slit sleeves and decoration that matches clothing painting from the Italian renaissance period.

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CH 8: Northern Renaissance

1. Chapter Vocabulary. This is for study purposes only. You do not need to write the definitions here.

Bum rolls

Conch

Doublet

Duckbills

French farthingale

Ruff

Spanish farthingale

Stomacher

Supportasse

Trunk hose

Venetians

Verdugale

4. Slide identification

Identify the garment(s) and period in each of the slides shown.

SLIDE

GARMENTS

PERIOD

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

3. Contemporary Inspirations

Search the internet for current designers who use the past in their contemporary collections. Make sure to note their names and include three sentences or more of what it is that you see reinterpreted here. There should be five examples included for each chapter.

DESIGN & ART MAGAZINE: Interview: Couturier Guo Pei's Art of Fashion

Designer:

Guo Pei

Inspiration:

Guo has designed this dress through the inspiration of Northern renaissance clothing. The dress the model is wearing has been designed with a similar style as the historical Northern Renaissance period clothing. The dress has been made to fit the upper half of the body, while the lower half is designed using strengthening materials to give the dress a cone shape just like the northern renaissance period fashion. The overall style is modernized with the use of a modern hairstyle that matches the dress.

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CH 9 : 17th Century

1. Chapter Vocabulary. This is for study purposes only. You do not need to write the definitions here.

Breeches

Cravat

Justacorps

Modeste

Pantofles

Petticoat breeches

Plumpers

Rhinegraves

Surtout

Tricorne

Vest

4. Slide identification

Identify the garment(s) and period in each of the slides shown.

SLIDE

GARMENTS

PERIOD

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

3. Contemporary Inspirations

Search the internet for current designers who use the past in their contemporary collections. Make sure to note their names and include three sentences or more of what it is that you see reinterpreted here. There should be five examples included for each chapter.

French fashion 16th to 19th Century | iMalayalee MultiChannel News Portal

Designer:

Yves Saint Laurent

Inspiration:

Yves designed the dress worn by this model, and it was mostly inspired by the dressing culture and fashion of the 17th century. The dress is characterized by broadening at the hips to form a cone-shaped skirt while the top half is well-fitting, which is similar to the 17th-century women's clothing fashion. The dress is given a modern look through a mixture of different colors and a modern hairstyle.

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CH 10: 18th Century

1. Chapter Vocabulary. This is for study purposes only. You do not need to write the definitions here.

Bergère

Caleche

Chemise à la Reine

Engagements

Frock coat

Hedgehog hairstyle

Hoops

Innocente

Paniers

Polonaise

Robe à la Française

Robe à l’Anglaise

Robe battante

Robe volante

Shepherdess hat

Spatterdashers, spats

Watteau back

4. Slide identification

Identify the garment(s) and period in each of the slides shown.

SLIDE

GARMENTS

PERIOD

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

3. Contemporary Inspirations

Search the internet for current designers who use the past in their contemporary collections. Make sure to note their names and include three sentences or more of what it is that you see reinterpreted here. There should be five examples included for each chapter.

10+ Modernized garments of 18th Century ideas | fashion, garment, fashion  design

Designer:

Vivienne Westwood

Inspiration:

This Vivienne designed has mostly been inspired by the 18th-century fashion style. The dress has been designed with a loop over the waist to create a petticoat. The dress has also been designed to form a stomacher, which is the V-shaped triangular panel on the upper half of the body. To give the dress a modern look, the designer has created a neck cover and sleeve lets that match the dress.

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CH 11: Directoire/Empire Period

1. Chapter Vocabulary. This is for study purposes only. You do not need to write the definitions here.

A la Titus

Bonnet rouge

Dandy

Incroyable

Merveilleuse

Pantalettes

Pelisse

Petticoat

Sans culottes

Trousers

4. Slide identification

Identify the garment(s) and period in each of the slides shown.

SLIDE

GARMENTS

PERIOD

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

3. Contemporary Inspirations

Search the internet for current designers who use the past in their contemporary collections. Make sure to note their names and include three sentences or more of what it is that you see reinterpreted here. There should be five examples included for each chapter.

Guo Pei, China's Homegrown High-Fashion Designer | The New Yorker

Designer:

Guo Pei

Inspiration:

This Pei’s Designed has clearly been inspired by the empire period. The dress has a high neckline and long sleeves, which gives the dress a similar look to the empire period fashion dress. Guo has added flower decorations on the dress to give the dress a modern look and added extra decorations on the sleeves, which gives the dress the latest look.

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CH 12: Romantic Period

1. Chapter Vocabulary. This is for study purposes only. You do not need to write the definitions here.

A la Chinoise

Bertha

Bonnet

Burnous

Chatelaine

Chesterfield

Cravat

Demi-gigot sleeve

En Coeur

Gigot sleeve

Imbecile sleeve

Leg of mutton sleeve

Mackintosh

Marie sleeve

Paletot

Pelerine

Top hat

4. Slide identification

Identify the garment(s) and period in each of the slides shown.

SLIDE

GARMENTS

PERIOD

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

3. Contemporary Inspirations

Search the internet for current designers who use the past in their contemporary collections. Make sure to note their names and include three sentences or more of what it is that you see reinterpreted here. There should be five examples included for each chapter.

60+ Romantic Era Inspired ideas | fashion, style, dresses

Designer:

Alexander McQueen

Inspiration:

The romantic era fashion has inspired this dress designed by McQueen. The dress is designed to have enlarged shoulders, which was a popular culture during the romantic era fashion. Moreover, the dress is designed to make the waist look smaller than it looks, which was mostly adapted during the romantic period. To give the dress a modern look, McQueen has made the broadened shoulders to be transparent.

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CH 13: Crinoline Period

1. Chapter Vocabulary. This is for study purposes only. You do not need to write the definitions here.

Bloomer costume

Braces

Cage crinoline

Garibaldi blouse

Inverness cape

Knickerbockers, knickers

Levi’s

Pea jacket

Princess dress

Reefer

Sack jacket

Snood

Zouave jacket

4. Slide identification

Identify the garment(s) and period in each of the slides shown.

SLIDE

GARMENTS

PERIOD

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

3. Contemporary Inspirations

Search the internet for current designers who use the past in their contemporary collections. Make sure to note their names and include three sentences or more of what it is that you see reinterpreted here. There should be five examples included for each chapter.

Global Sourcing – The Crinoline Era

Designer:

Alexander McQueen

Inspiration:

This wide full skirt designed by McQueen has been inspired by the crinoline period fashion style and developed in lines that bring out the crinoline skirt in a unique and modern look. The dress is designed to have a stiff and structured hoop skirt that holds out the woman's skirt, which was most popular during the crinoline period. The is combined with a headdress and neck cover, which modernize the dress and give it a stunning look.

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CH 14: Bustle Period

1. Chapter Vocabulary. This is for study purposes only. You do not need to write the definitions here.

Aesthetic dress

Art Nouveau

Bust bodice

Bust improvers

Bustle

Combination

Deerstalker cap

Fedora

Homburg

Leg of mutton sleeve

Mourning crape

Tea gown

Tuxedo

Union suit

4. Slide identification

Identify the garment(s) and period in each of the slides shown.

SLIDE

GARMENTS

PERIOD

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

3. Contemporary Inspirations

Search the internet for current designers who use the past in their contemporary collections. Make sure to note their names and include three sentences or more of what it is that you see reinterpreted here. There should be five examples included for each chapter.

bustle | Fashion History Timeline

Designer:

Rei Kawakubo

Inspiration:

The Bustle period style has truly inspired rei in designing this costume. The model is wearing a dress that is designed with various styles from the Bustle period fashion, from the way it is trimmed to the way the skirts match with bodice. She is also wearing a headdress, which is designed in a way similar to a false hairpiece.

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CH 15: Edwardian and World War I Period

1. Chapter Vocabulary. This is for study purposes only. You do not need to write the definitions here.

Basque shirt

Delphos gown

Duster

Gibson Girl

Haute couture

Hobble skirt

Macintosh

Pompadour

Stetson

Surrealism

Tea gown

4. Slide identification

Identify the garment(s) and period in each of the slides shown.

SLIDE

GARMENTS

PERIOD

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

3. Contemporary Inspirations

Search the internet for current designers who use the past in their contemporary collections. Make sure to note their names and include three sentences or more of what it is that you see reinterpreted here. There should be five examples included for each chapter.

Max Mara Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show | Military fashion, Military  inspired fashion, Military fashion women

Designer:

Max Mara

Inspiration:

This Max design has been inspired by the Edwardian and world war 1-period clothing style. The model is wearing a simple short shirt and a long coat, which have military colors to represent the world war period. The outfit is also short, and the color is sober and muted, which was a fashion culture during the world war 1 period.

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Inspiration:

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CH 16: The Roaring Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

1. Chapter Vocabulary. This is for study purposes only. You do not need to write the definitions here.

Bias cut

Bob

Cami-knickers

Handkerchief skirt

Robe de style

Clutch coat

Marcel wave

Barrymore collar

Jabot

Cloche

Polo coats

Cummerbund

Art Deco

Rayon

Acetate

Batwing sleeves

Eisenhower jackets

Sloppy joes

Dirndl skirts

Surrealism

4. Slide identification

Identify the garment(s) and period in each of the slides shown.

SLIDE

GARMENTS

PERIOD

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

3. Contemporary Inspirations

Search the internet for current designers who use the past in their contemporary collections. Make sure to note their names and include three sentences or more of what it is that you see reinterpreted here. There should be five examples included for each chapter.

20's inspired flapper fringe gown by Marchesa. #bridal #wedding | Flapper  style dresses, Dresses, Fashion

Designer:

Marchesa

Inspiration:

The roaring twenties, thirties have clearly inspired Marchesa and world war II period fashion in this costume. The model is wearing a dress that has a modest top, wide sleeves, and high waist, which is one of the fashion styles during the world war II period fashion. She is also wearing shoes that have thick hills and ample straps, which was also a common style during the world war II period fashion.

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CH 17: The New Look and the Fifties

1. Chapter Vocabulary. This is for study purposes only. You do not need to write the definitions here.

The New Look

Zoot suits

Hawaiian shirts

Teddy boys

Guepiere/waist cincher

The Bold Look

Crew cuts

Crinoline

Merry widow

Ivy League look

beatniks

Princess seams

Ballerina length

Bermuda shorts

Pedal pushers

Peter pan collar

White bucks

Grey flannel suit

4. Slide identification

Identify the garment(s) and period in each of the slides shown.

SLIDE

GARMENTS

PERIOD

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

3. Contemporary Inspirations

Search the internet for current designers who use the past in their contemporary collections. Make sure to note their names and include three sentences or more of what it is that you see reinterpreted here. There should be five examples included for each chapter.

https://images.businessoffashion.com/boards/ralph-and-russo/haute-couture-spring-2018/paris-fashion-week/women/307a4ea8c56f5cf497ce2fc1de112e12-5a66652ba9233.jpeg?w=500&auto=format%2Ccompress&h=750&fit=crop&crop=top

Designer:

Ralph & Russo

Inspiration:

This dress designed has mostly been inspired by the new look and the fifties fashion. The model is wearing a full skirt that drops below the knee, and it is nipped on a high waist to bring out the woman's waist, which was a major culture during the 1950s. The dress is modernized with the addition of a woolen section at the lower section.

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CH 18: Sixties and Seventies

1. Chapter Vocabulary. This is for study purposes only. You do not need to write the definitions here.

Trapeze

A-line

Mods

Dashiki

Caftan

Kente cloth

Mud cloth

Nehru jacket

Mini

Monokini

Permanent press

Chemise/sack dress

Ethnic influences

Punk

Granny dress

Wrap dress

Wearable art

Disco

sports bra

Midi

Maxi

Hot pants

4. Slide identification

Identify the garment(s) and period in each of the slides shown.

SLIDE

GARMENTS

PERIOD

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

3. Contemporary Inspirations

Search the internet for current designers who use the past in their contemporary collections. Make sure to note their names and include three sentences or more of what it is that you see reinterpreted here. There should be five examples included for each chapter.

https://i2.wp.com/therebelheart.net/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/C3BBBCBF-5DD8-4E63-83DC-4F21F929A464.jpeg?resize=674%2C1013

Designer:

Jeremy Scott

Inspiration:

Scott has truly been inspired by the sixties and seventies fashion in this costume. The model is wearing a full-body skirt above the knees, which shows that it is a mini skirt invented during the sixties and seventies fashion. She is also wearing a hat that matches the dress, which is also a common fashion during the sixties and seventies fashion.

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Inspiration:

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CH 19: The Eighties and Nineties

1. Chapter Vocabulary. This is for study purposes only. You do not need to write the definitions here.

Conspicuous consumption

Le pouf

Shorts suit

Legwarmers

Minimalism

anti-fashion

Preppies

Casual dress

Grunge

Heroin chic

Power suit

Yuppies

Logo

Devore velvet

Lyocell

Recycled polyester

Gothic

petticoat dress

baby doll dress

spandex

mohair sweaters

4. Slide identification

Identify the garment(s) and period in each of the slides shown.

SLIDE

GARMENTS

PERIOD

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

3. Contemporary Inspirations

Search the internet for current designers who use the past in their contemporary collections. Make sure to note their names and include three sentences or more of what it is that you see reinterpreted here. There should be five examples included for each chapter.

https://i.pinimg.com/564x/bd/28/f7/bd28f7e813930da1befb7038cab78759.jpg

Designer:

Calvin Klein

Inspiration:

Calvin has truly been inspired by the eighties and nineties fashion in this costume. The model is wearing a dress that has mini skirt features, and it is simply hanging from the shoulders, which was a common fashion culture during the eighties and the nineties fashion.

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CH 20: 2000 The New Millennium

1. Chapter Vocabulary. This is for study purposes only. You do not need to write the definitions here.

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boho

burqini

Capri

cargo pants

Crocs

hijab

hoodie

Tencel

trucker’s cap

4. Slide identification

Identify the garment(s) and period in each of the slides shown.

SLIDE

GARMENTS

PERIOD

1.

2.

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10.

3. Contemporary Inspirations

Search the internet for current designers who use the past in their contemporary collections. Make sure to note their names and include three sentences or more of what it is that you see reinterpreted here. There should be five examples included for each chapter.

TBT: This Is What Fall 2000 London Fashion Week Looked Like | Vogue

Designer:

Roberto Menichetti

Inspiration:

The 2000 new millennium fashion has truly inspired this dress. The model is wearing a dress that has been decorated with bright, colorful flowers, which is a culture mostly observed with the 2000 new millennium fashion. The model is also wearing shoes that match the dress new millennium colors.

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