brand research report

Coterie, Capsule, Cabana x JOOR & NuOrder Trade Shows S/S 21

September 2020: Digita l sa les pla tform s ha ve opened up tra ding opportunities for a m ore diverse ra nge of bra nds a nd with it a m ore interna tiona l rea ch of buyers. We highlight the key m essa ges a nd bra nds to wa tch 

from over 1,800 globa l exhibitors

Gl o r y Ang

N orm a lly squeezed into a three-da y event, the pa ndem ic forced Coterie, Ca psule a nd Ca ba na into digita l form a ts for S/S 21. P a rtnering with digita l sa les pla tform N uOrder, Coterie hosted its usua l ja m -pa cked event over a n eight-week period, m ea ning buyers could browse over 1,200 bra nds a t their leisure through digita l showroom s a nd online a ppointm ents. On-dem a nd sessions, educa tiona l guides a nd shoppa ble edits repla ced the usua l line-up of in-person sem ina rs a nd workshops.

Mea nwhile, JOOR wa s the pla tform of choice for designers who norm a lly frequent the sta nds of Ca psule a nd Ca ba na , a longside a n offering of a m ore globa l ra nge of designers. JOOR cura ted its edit with diversity a t the fore; 22% of the pa rticipa ting bra nds were m inority owned, 24% fem a le-owned a nd 9% m a de in the USA.

Collectively, the extended rea ch, prolonged dura tion a nd ea se of exhibiting a m ore globa l selection of bra nds a longside a reduced ca rbon footprint will no doubt a dd va lue to the ca se for the digita l tra de show experience. 

Digital platforms enabled the shows to not only host a more diverse range of brands, but invited a global audience of buyers able to browse at their own leisure without the need to travel. A more inclusive, sustainable platform is born.

JO O R

@co t er i e_ sho w

Li ber t y Fai r s

Digital sales platforms pave the way for a more diverse,

sustainable trade show experience 

Explore perennial summer themes and emphasise core lines to spell out commercial success for the season ahead. 

1. Core is king: S/S 21 sees bra nds focus on wha t sells, redefining their core item s in prem ium m a teria ls. This isn't exclusive to tra de shows, #ea sydressing ha s been spotted throughout the ca twa lk sea son, so com m ercia lly there's never been a better tim e to get ba ck to ba sics. 

2. I t's all in the details: innova tive deta iling evolves even the m ost ba sic styles. Spa ghetti stra ps, cutouts a nd volum inous silhouettes a re key.

3. Escapist looks work for vacation and staycation: be it holida ying a t hom e or jetting oversea s, there's a wea lth of uplifting looks essentia l for the high-sum m er buy. Tropica l prints, high-octa ne colour a nd la id-ba ck silhouettes a re perfect for sta tem ent sum m er dressing. 

4. M atching sets are here to stay: a n evolution of #sta yhom estyle, set dressing continues a s a key styling m essa ge with plenty of potentia l for lounge looks a nd beyond. 

Anna Q uan

Action Points

Theme

• P a rt evolution of m inim a lism a nd pa rt recession-proofing ra nges, #ea sy dressing hones in on bestselling ba sics to levera ge S/S 21 collections

• P rem ium , com forta ble, core sha pes a re key. Buy into m odern cut-a nd- sew sha pes such a s ra cerfront vests, oversized swea ts, prem ium leggings a nd slim ribbed dresses. For wovens, shirting fills the spa ce between sm a rt a nd ca sua l. Ma ria McMa nus's oversized fits offer inspira tionA-Li ne

Core Casuals

AVN

H ansel & Gr et el

Al i gne

M ar i a M cM anus

Theme

• Destina tion dressing is key in truehigh-sum m er spirit. Bra nds project a feeling of esca pism via vibra nt tropica l prints, sa rong skirts, bra lettes a nd full-volum e dress sha pes

• This viva cious, uplifting story is foreca st to sta y, rem a ining a key m essa ge for holida y buys for va ca tion a nd sta yca tion wa rdrobes

FAR M R i o

Club Tropicana

Io r ane

Az ul u

Del f i

Gl o r y Ang

Theme

• P erennia l bohem ia is a key buy for the sea son. Focus on a rtisa na l cra fting to push the them e forwa rd, a s outlined in our Cra ftwork story

• Sm ock dresses, tiered skirts, rom a ntic blouses a nd crochet trim s form this free-spirited look. Our editor's pick is London's  M.A.B.E, who focus on sm a ll-ba tch production, na tura l fibres a nd cra ftsm a nship, with the sloga n "Adventure Inspires us - Artistry defines us" 

M .A.B .E .

Summer Bohème

N i co l e M i l l er

B eat r i ce B .

Io r ane

M KT S t ud i o

Theme

• Occa sionwea r evokes a new ea se, with bra nds opting for rela xed, versa tile pieces tha t tra nsla te well in both ca sua l a nd dressier contexts 

• Buy into eleva ted fa brics a nd contem pora ry constructions, looking to fluid #pa tternpla y, set-dressing a nd reversible constructions tha t prom ote versa tility. Austra lia -ba sed Bondi Born ca ptures the look with its bea ch-to-ba r a esthetic

B o nd i B o r n

Easy Elegance

Acl er

M at t hew B r uch

Anamar i a Vel ez

Aer o n

Colour

• #unblea ched colourwa ys prom ote a tim eless a esthetic, rem a ining releva nt throughout the sea sons a nd a ppea ling to custom ers looking to buy into the 'less, but better' m indset 

• N a tura l fibres work orga nica lly a longside this trend. Choose undyed ya rns a nd colour-grown cotton or fibres such a s unblea ched cotton, wool a nd linen, supporting a m ore susta ina ble finish 

Aer o n

AVN

M o d R efJo sl i n

A-Li ne

Anna Q uan

Unbleached

Colour

• Ba rely there pa stels a re spotted throughout the shows, with #da ylight blue dom ina ting the m ix. Test these suga ry pa stels on core pieces such a s jersey tees a nd dresses, a s seen a t A-Line a nd Anna Qua n

• Cottons lend the look a m a tte, m ore form a l feel, while silks a nd sa tin nod to our Ea sy Elega nce them e, a s seen a t Bondi Born

B o nd i B o r n

A-Li ne

AVNH ache

Aer o n

Anna Q uan

Sugar Pastels

Colour

• Support the Club Tropica na them e with a ra nge of piercing high- sum m er brights. Ora nge a nd ora nge-infused hues such a s Oxy Fire a nd Ma ngo Sorbet a re key, levelled by tropica l greens outlined in our Colour Foreca st

• These hot tones will be idea l for high sum m er a nd ca n be used yea r- round for fa shion-focused item s

B o nd i B o r n

H ache

AVNAVN

B eat r i ce B .

M ar go B ar i d o n

Tropical Brights

Key Item

• Loved for its com forta ble, ea sy-to-wea r a ppea l, the sm ock rem a ins a key buy a m ong dress ca tegories

• P uff sleeves, tiers a nd drop-wa ists prom ote inclusive, com fort-first style, with a throw-on a ppea l tha t will work for va ca tion a nd sta yca tion wa rdrobes a like. Opt for tropica l prints or bohèm e pa ttern for holida y ca psules, or focus on prem ium , na tura l m a teria ls, a s seen a t A Mente

FAR M R i o

Smock Dress

M .A.B .E

B eat r i ce B .

A M ent e

AVN

Key Item

• The hero item of the pa st few sea sons, there's plenty of wa ys to buy into the #m a tchingset beyond loungewea r looks for S/S 21. Ta ke S/W/F's skirt/top com bo, a key a pproa ch for the high-sum m er m onths

• Continue to buy into prem ium jersey a nd knitwea r sets, a n im porta nt look for hom ewea r ra nges tha t's intercha ngea ble throughout sea sons 

M ar i a M cM anus

Matching Set 

Jo sl i n

B o nd i B o r n

Ceci l i e Co penhagen

S /W/F

Key Item

• A focus on core sha pes sees the return of the slim -fit dress, best rendered in ribbed jersey or knits. This is a fa ilsa fe tra nsitiona l item tha t a lrea dy ha s com m ercia l kudos 

• Opt for fla ttering fit-a nd-fla re silhouettes, a s seen a t Anna Qua n a nd Aeron. Continue to explore sta tem ent necklines, spotted a t Acler, for #a bovethekeyboa rd m om ents

Aer o n

Slim-Fit Dress

B ec + B r i d ge

Anna Q uan

Acl er

And r ew Co i mbr a

Details

• Spotted a cross the ca twa lks, cut-outs a re a key buy for next sea son, lifting ba sics with a m odernist edge a nd crea ting Future Cla ssics

• Cut-out jersey ba sics a re a n im porta nt buy while m ore directiona l looks see the deta il m oved into ta iloring, a s explored by Andrew Coim bra

• For a com m ercia l hit, explore ba ckless cut-outs a cross dress silhouettes

Wy nn H aml y n

Jo sl i n

A-Li neAnd r ew Co i mbr a

Anna Q uan

B ec + B r i d ge

Cut-outs

Details

• Sta tem ent spa ghetti stra ps a re utilised a s both a function a nd decora tive fea ture a cross S/S 21 collections 

• H a nsel & Gretel opts for ba rely there ba ck closures while Ma tthew Bruch refreshes the cropped shirt with a criss-cross tie. Wynn H a m lyn's ha lter- style neckline nods to the understa ted styling of the Ea sy Elega nce them e

H ansel & Gr et el

B o nd i B o r n

M at t hew B r uchWy nn H aml y n

Aer o n

Jo sl i n

Skinny Straps

Detail 

• As foreca st, full form continues a s a wa y of a dding a pla yful look to silhouettes, no longer exclusive to the now perennia l #puffsleeve 

• Test #bubblehem silhouettes a cross m ore directiona l m a rkets, with the look fitting na tura lly into occa sionwea r, a s seen a t Acler, or m ore ca sua l tops a nd skirts, a s seen a t AVN

FAR M R i o

Acl er

Del f iAVN

B eat r i ce B .

M ar go B ar i d o n

Full Form

Brand Contacts Andrew Coimbra a ndrew@a ndrewcoim bra .com www.a ndrewcoim bra .com

Anna Quan  ka tekilley@theknowna gency.com www.a nna qua n.com

AVN federica ghera rdi@a rca rieco.com www.a vn-ita ly.com

Azulu rpa va @a zulu.com www.a zulu.com

Beatrice B m egha n.m cdona [email protected] www.bea triceb.com

Bec & Bridge  sa les@pla ceshowroom .com www.beca ndbridge.com

A M ente  ha jeongsong@gm a il.com www.thea m ente.com

A-L ine  conta ct@a line.com www.a lineclothing.com

Acler  ka tekilley@theknowna gency.com www.shopa cler.com

Aeron a gnes.bendsa k@a eron.com www.a eron.com

Aligne wholesa le@a ligne.co www.a ligne.co

Anamaria Velez  venta s@a na m a ria -velez.com www.a na m a ria -velez.com

Bondi Born

ka tekilley@theknowna gency.com www.bondiborn.com

Cecilie Copenhagen   support@ceciliecopenha gen.com www.ceciliecopenha gen.com

Delfi lindsa y@sim onshowroom .com .  www.delficollective.com

F arm Rio  conta ct@fa rm rio.br  www.fa rm rio.com .br

Glory Ang  jeff@glorya ng.co www.glorya ng.co

Hache  m .da lla ga ta @a rca rieco.com www.ha che.it

A-Li ne

Brand Contacts M argo Baridon  ctorrico@m e.com www.m a rgoba ridon.com

M aria M cM anus a a sa [email protected] www.m a ria m cm a nus.com

M KT Studio  m egha n.m cdona [email protected] www.m ktstudio.com

M od Ref m a ry@m odrefclothing.com www.m odrefclothing.com

Hansel & Gretel   sa les@pla ceshowroom .com www.ha nsena ndgretel.com

I orane m a ria @iora netogo.com www.iora netogo.com

Joslin   ka tekilley@theknowna gency.com www.joslinstudio.com

M ABE kirstine@m a bea ppa rel.com www.m a bea ppa rel.com

Nicole M iller wholesa le@nicolem iller.com www.nicolem iller.com

S/W /F   sa les@pla ceshowroom .com www.swfboutique.com

W ynn Hamlyn  ka tekilley@theknowna gency.com www.wynnha m lyn.com

M ar i a M cM anus