explain for me
From Page to Stage
The Costume Designer’s Process
You Can’t Make Just One
Unlike a scenic designer, who makes one complete thing (the set), a costume designer usually has to create clothes that must work as individual costumes, but also work as a collection. Creativity and ingenuity are a big part of a costume designer's work, but there are some specific, clear and orderly steps that a designer will go through to move from the pages of the script to a fully-realized, exciting and meaningful collection of costumes. Let's take a look at the steps of this process, and some of the people who help get it done.
Costumes for the orphans from Annie
Step 1: The Script
A costume designer will read the script multiple times. The first read-through may just be to give the designer a general impression of the play. With later readings, the designer will start to read the script more critically. She will look for information about the location of the play, the time period, any things that the play will require (for example, if it’s mentioned that a character has a hat, one must design a hat). The designer will also start to collect information on the various characters: their ages, occupation, relationships, personality traits, etc. These subsequent readings will also help the costume designer to get a feel for the mood and theme of the play. These readings of the script will give the her the opportunity to mine the script for any possible information needed for the costume design and enable her to begin thinking about some specific design ideas.
Step 2: Meeting of the Minds, Part 1
Early on in the process, the costume designer will meet with the director and the other designers to discuss the director’s concept, and get a sense of what the other designers are bringing to the production. This ensures that all designers are aware of each other’s early ideas and thoughts on the production, AS WELL AS making sure that all designers are clear on the director’s overall vision.
Step 3: Research
Research is a critical part of the costume designer’s work. While architecture from different periods may last for decades or centuries, clothing styles change relatively rapidly. If a designer is going to accurately depict a particular time period, they MUST do research to see what the clothing of that time looked like. Designers will look at images or other resources from that time period to ensure that what their design shows is accurate. Designers also may do research to get ideas for images, colors, textures or other design elements that will convey a particular mood or atmosphere.
Step 4: Some Quick Sketches
After reading the script and researching, the costume designer will begin to create quick visual references. These may be quick sketches, sample color palettes, fabric swatches. This sketch at far left is very rough, but notice that is shows a basic shape, and has some notes about fabric and color. The near left sketch shows some color ideas.
Step 5: Meeting of the Minds, Part 2
Once the costume designer has these early visual ideas down on paper, it will be time to meet with the director again. At this meeting, the costume designer and the director will discuss the early designs and decide on any changes that may be needed. Once they agree, the designer can move to the next phase of the design.
Step 6: Final Renderings
Now that the designs have been finalized and approved, the costume designer will create more detailed drawings. These are called renderings, and will include thing like accurate color, fabric swatches, additional drawings of any small details, and other information that will be needed to create the costumes accurately.
A GREAT Example of a Rendering
This is a GREAT example of a rendering. It shows the color drawing, has several fabric swatches, and includes notes on how much yardage of fabric to buy, prices, and how many of each costume piece to make.
Step 7: Getting Dimensions
While the scenic designer must make her set to fit on the stage, the costume designer must make her contributions to fit on the actors. Before the designer and her team can move from renderings to real clothes, each actor must meet with the costume team to have measurements taken.
Step 8: To Pull or to Build?
A costume designer does have a some choices on how to get those costumes in the real world. She may pull them or build them. When costumes are pulled, the designer will go and select them from costume storage or a costume rental company. If costumes are built, then the designer and her team will create them in the costume shop—developing the patterns, cutting the fabric, and sewing and embellishing them.
Pulling from stock
Building
A Note on Building Costumes
Although it may surprise you, some costume designers never actually do any of the costume building themselves. Instead, the costume shop staff does this. The person in charge of a costume shop is the costume shop manager. Other costume staff include cutters, drapers, dyers, first hands, stitchers, crafts specialists, and hair and wig stylists. Wardrobe staff are responsible for maintaining and cleaning costumes once the show is running.
Here, a costume shop staffer works on a costumes while referring to the designer’s rendering.
Step 9: Getting the Fit Right
Whether costumes are pulled from stock or are built specifically for a particular production, they must fit the actors. This means that in addition to the original measurements that were taken for each actor, the actors must periodically come in for fittings. Fittings ensure that costumes fit properly, that they hang right, and that actors can move easily in them.
Here is an image of an actor in a fitting. Notice that the designer is checking the fit of the costume, while a costume shop staff member pays close attention to any notes or adjustments that may be necessary after the fitting.
Step 10: Final Touches
No costume design is truly complete without the finishing touches. This includes things like shoes, jewelry, accessories, hairstyles and wigs, and make-up. The designer must make sure that these finishing touches are also ready to go before the dress rehearsals begin.
There are lots of finishing touches here: wigs, shoes, neckties, medals, handkerchiefs, rings, specific period makeup.
Summation
The costume designer works through a specific process to move from the pages of the script to costumes that enhance the production and allow the actors to more fully inhabit their characters and move through the actions of the play. The steps to this process are:
Read the script
Meet with the director and other designers
Research
Sketch rough costume ideas
Meet with the director to finalize designs
Create detailed renderings of the costumes
Get actor measurements
Pull or build the pieces needed for the show
Bring actors in to make sure that all costumes fit and perform as needed
Be sure to incorporate all additional elements (shoes, accessories, hairstyles, and makeup, etc.)