assignment

Beauty as a standard 

Last week we looked at the idea of masculinity and the performance of it through import car racing. We examined images of masculinity and Asian American men, making comparisons to what expectations may be and how there might be a disconnect between the two.  This week we will look into the standards of beauty for women (again through the heteronormative lens) and the extreme measures women take to achieve them.  We will also discuss the cultural normalization of cosmetic surgeries through the surge of popularity and accessibility.  We will cover the cosmetic surgery industry in the US, American/Western beauty standards and the impact that it has made on Asia and Asian America.  There will be discussion of the differences in surgeries sought out by women (both American and Asian American), the motivations and the shift in cultural acceptance of cosmetic surgeries.  Below is a Ted Talk video by model Cameron Russell that will help introduce subtopics we will be covering this week. 

While viewing the video take note on what she says about: 

· The crafting of beauty by media

· The impact on young women

· The privileges she carries by her appearance

· The correlation between image and perceived success and failures

When we are discussing "standards of beauty" note that we are initially focusing on Western standards as the measure of beauty.  Standards of beauty have changed overtime in the United States and world wide.  Societies give value to these standards shaping the way beauty is qualified.  Interestingly enough the shifts in these standards can sometimes be drastic with one decade appreciating a woman's full figured body and the next celebrating a more thin and pre-pubescent body type.  The science of people (Links to an external site.) broke down the video created by Buzzfeed below that shows the different body types through history.  View the video and read the article to see how the standards shifted but also how women would adapt to achieve these standards of beauty. 

If you note in the article, in today's time plastic surgery is increasingly sought out as "remedies" to women's bodies in hopes of achieving the "Post Modern" standard of beauty.  We will discuss the correlation with media's impact on beauty and the increase in access to different types of plastic surgeries both in the United States and Asia.  

The young stay young

As we have seen in prior weeks media has a great deal of power in shaping images of self and beauty.  What people see in the movies, television, magazines and the internet can lead women to seek out various measures to achieve these standards.  Even though it's well known that make up and post production (Photoshop and filters) enhances the image, these images still make grave impacts on societal norms of beauty.  While the computer uses tricks to cinch waists, enhance breasts and softening/brighten skin, women begin to look into means outside of beauty products to achieve those same results.  In the past, the idea of cosmetic surgery was seen as taboo, only for the rich and was plagued with "worst case scenarios" stories.  Only the extreme cases of drastic bodily changes were highlighted often frightening those who would consider it.  As many cultural changes occur, modifications from extreme help to lighten the fear of the unknown and make it more tangible with greater exposure and access.  

In the past, society only knew of the term plastic surgery  (intended to correct dysfunctional areas of the body) and used the term interchangeably with cosmetic surgery procedures.  Most often it was used to describe "makeovers" that celebrities would undergo and focused on the most extreme changes.  Since it was seen as something for the affluent it was not something that was readily accessible to the average American.  The naming, access points and cost all helped to grow the field of cosemetic surgery and the "toned down" nature of it's results.  The idea that cosmetic surgery offers an "enhancement" or "reshaping" parts of the body is much more appealing than words like "reconstructive" or "corrective".  In today's American society (and Asian societies as well) the taboo has left and has gained a bit more cultural acceptance.  The media has helped to lessen the fear and shame by normalizing cosmetic surgeries as just a means to an end.  What has also helped to spark this change is the number of non-invasive procedures that have been performed and sought out.  These types of "touch ups" are intended not to make a drastic change but to preserve youth (avoiding wrinkles with Botox injections) thus making it feel much more like maintenance than change.  Of course with a growing demand comes a growth in supply.  Competition helps to lower costs, thus making it more accessible to a wider customer base. 

Minimally invasive versus surgical procedure

The term cosmetic surgery was definitely a more positive move towards societal acceptance to be used as a beauty enhancer.  Enhancing beauty sounds much better than reconstruction but what is even more gentle is the idea of minimally invasive procedures.  These types of procedures are marketed as maintenance that are used to battled the "dreaded" aging process.  Both minimally invasive and surgical procedures are considered cosmetic but the minimally invasive procedures grew at a slightly higher rate than surgical procedures in 2017. While three of the top-two surgical procedures focused on the body, the top minimally invasive procedures focused on the face.  Below are numbers from a 2018 study done by the American society of plastic surgeons.  Can you see the difference in the numbers between cosmetic surgical procedures and minimally invasive procedures? 

Of the nearly 1.8 million cosmetic surgical procedures performed in the US in 2017, the top 5 were:

· Breast augmentation (300,378 procedures, up 3 percent from 2016)

· Liposuction (246,354 procedures, up 5 percent from 2016)

· Nose reshaping (218,924 procedures, down 2 percent from 2016)

· Eyelid surgery (209,571 procedures, approximately the same as 2016)

· Tummy tuck (129,753 procedures, up 2 percent from 2016)

Among the 15.7 million cosmetic minimally invasive procedures performed in the US in 2017, the top 5 were:

· Botulinum Toxin Type A (7.23 million procedures, up 2 percent from 2016)

· Soft Tissue Fillers (2.69 million procedures, up 3 percent from 2016)

· Chemical Peel (1.37 million procedures, up 1 percent since 2016)

· Laser hair removal (1.1 million procedures, down 2 percent from 2016)

· Microdermabrasion (740,287 procedures, down 4 percent from 2016)

Clearly minimally invasive procedures have surpassed surgical procedures by the millions due to what was previously stated: access, affordability and normalization.  Some of the surgical procedures are actually the most common ones amongst Asian Americans (nose reshaping and eyelid surgery) but have been on the decline.   Could it be that they are less interested in them or are they getting these procedures elsewhere?

Who does what? 

Minimally invasive cosmetic surgeries are not only on the rise but also have seen an uptick in a specific age group.  As we saw in the discussion and lecture of masculinity, the idea of beauty lives in a younger age group.   If the standard of beauty is in young adulthood then the push is no longer to try to recreate the early 20's skin but to preserve it while living in your 20's.  Between 2011 and 2015 there was a 41% increase of Botox procedures performed on women 19-35.  This affirms the push of retaining the youthful look while still being young.  The benefits found by these procedures outweigh the pain and costs, especially since they are drastically less than more invasive cosmetic surgeries.  And though it may seem to be much more affordable than the surgical procedures the "maintenance" means there is an expectation to return frequently to retain their youthful look which would add up.  

Race

In 1990, 20% of cosmetic surgery patients were Latinos and Asian Americans.  From 2005-2013 the American Society of Plastic Surgeons estimated the number of cosmetic performed on: 

· Asian Americans increased by 125%

· Latinos 85%

· African Americans 56% 

· Caucasians 35%

Asian Americans numbers increased at the highest rate, and the types of surgeries they seek out are always part of the top 5.  Take a look at the top 5 surgeries in 2017 (Links to an external site.) listed above and compare it to the graph broken down by ethnicities (Links to an external site.) (blepharoplasty is eyelid surgery).  These types of surgeries within the face are seen as ones that target "problem areas" that Asian faces carry (in some cases verbalized as "corrective" surgery).  The monolid (one eyelid) and lack of bridge in the nose in Asian faces explains why those types of surgeries are sought out by Asian Americans.  These characteristics are typically Asian and yet are seen as unflattering "flaws" by Western standards.  Looking at the "flaws" that need to be "fixed" Asian women seek out these surgeries to achieve more Western characteristics, thus "correcting nature's wrongs".  

 Motivations and Medicalization

Asians and Asian Americans have similar motivations to want cosmetic surgery as anyone else, but there are some added motivations that are particularly held within the community.  Besides attempting to achieve a standard of beauty, some internalize the notion that Asian characteristics as "flawed" and seek out to fix the impairments.  In the ethnographic study (Links to an external site.) by Kaw women are interviewed and describe their motivations for cosmetic surgeries (read over this study from the early 1990's as it will be central to the discussion for this week).  You can see that the motivations listed below all have to do with how these women view their features ("flawed") in comparison to the the Western/Dominant culture ("ideal"): 

1. Corrective surgery: When Asian characteristics (born with) are described as flaws, it becomes more of a need to "correct" the issue rather than enhance a part of the body or face. 

2. Western standards of beauty: Though many women who seek out cosmetic surgeries are adhering to standards of beauty, the Asian and Asian American women are seeking out standards that directly come from a culture outside of their own. 

3. Negative feelings: When the dominant culture's perspective of their racial identity as seen as the pinnacle of positive (and in this case the standard of beauty), the Asian/Asian American only views theirs as negative.  

Characteristics and abnormality 

The two surgeries that are most common for Asian Americans are the rhinoplasty (nose) and blepharoplasty (eyelid).  Both are distinguishable Asian facial features and are targets of "correction".  The monolid (common characteristic on Asian faces) has been described as sleepy or dull looking as opposed to the double eyelid as more awake and vibrant.  These adjectives are not used to describe any other racial or ethnic groups' features (of eyes specifically), and becomes common practice, even in medical journals.  A quote from a Dr. Smith from this week's reading explains the impact Western culture on Asian societies' views of beauty, "The social reasons [for Asian Americans to want double eyelids and nose bridges] are undoubtedly due to the continued exposure to Western culture and the realization that the upper eyelid without a fold tends to give a sleepy appearance, and therefore a more dull look to the patient."   

Physical features have also become correlated to personality or character traits.  The lack of nasal bridge (another common Asian facial feature) is a signal of something greater than just a lack of cartilage.  It signifies (as stated by Dr. Smith) as "weakness in one's personality and by lack of extension, a lack of force in one's character".  Both parts of the face help to shape the identity physically and apparently define one's character (dull, sleepy and lack of force).  What's even more interesting is that in public medical journals and texts the Asian characteristics are viewed in conflict with Western characteristics. So much so that they are referred to as "abnormal".  

Claiming Western features as the standard of normality creates an enormous impact on the Asian American patient being served.  The doctors freely incorporate abnormality and the association of Asian features with negative characteristics into medical discourse.  Repetition of the term "abnormal" in a consultation helps to reassure the patient that their features can be "normalized" by adhering to the desired beauty standard of choice.  This of course is not just to help the patient feel better about herself, it also helps the industry gain profit.  Of course this industry is for profit and like any group of associated people there are ones who we would view as "good" and others who we might view as "bad".  Though many women who seek out do not have body dysmorphia (Links to an external site.), those who do have the mental disorder have a harder time saying no to the knife repeatedly, especially under the encouragement of doctors who prey on them.  

Profit and normalization  

Any patient who enters a doctor's office offers up a sense of trust in that medical professional.  These professionals know how to handle patients' fears, anxieties and can ease their concerns through consultations.  In some circumstances these surgeons play up the patient's concerns in order to build profit, encouraging additional "work" to correct "flaws" that the patient had not even mentioned.  It is a dangerous situation for those who suffer from the body dysmorphia and even for those who do not but want to do their best to look their best.  

Any patient goes through the process of a consultation where they discuss the goals of their surgical procedures. Many patients confidently know what the want and a good sense of how the doctor will achieve it.  Others might hand over the control to the knowledgeable professional and often times get roped into more than what they asked for.  Some patients complained that doctors prey on the women's insecurities and armed with the trusty white coat easily affirm the "need" for surgery through three easy steps: 

1.  Study the face 

2. Tell them what is wrong with negative terms (weak, dull, sleepy, lacking)

3. Mark up the face

4. Explain how the improvements can only be made surgically

5. Profit! 

A new report from the American Society of Plastic Surgeons (Links to an external site.)  (Links to an external site.)(ASPS) reveals that Americans spent more than $16.5 billion on cosmetic plastic surgery and minimally-invasive procedures in 2018.  These surgeries are often layered so the numbers are high not just because each patient is getting one treatment or part of their face/body done.  As Alan Matarasso, MD, president of the American Society of Plastic Surgeons affirms:  "For example, a facelift procedure is often complemented with injections of soft-tissue fillers. When these procedures are combined it not only provides optimal results, but it can be more economical for patients." This is an astounding number but nothing in comparison to the rates, accessibility and cultural acceptance of cosmetic surgery in South Korea. 

A society's acceptance

South Korea's rise in cosmetic surgery paralleled the transnational success of Korean Popular Culture as a whole.  The Hallyu wave (will be discussed in depth later on in the semester) of Korean popular culture outside of Korea launched a worldwide obsession with all things Korean.  From the early 2000's until today Korean culture traveled over to other Asian nations and even Western countries and created an obsession one television drama, movie and song at a time.  These actors and singers were the epitome of beauty (for example Black Pink, kpop group as photographed above) and  popular music singers became synonymous with a new South Korean standard of beauty. 

Though the features sought out are seen as Eastern standards of beauty today, they were gained by continued exposure to Western cultures and adapted to Korean standards of beauty today.  The video below highlights how Western culture influences open Asian countries in beauty standards, impacting the society as a whole.  The article by the Huffington Post UK (Links to an external site.) explains how post division of Korea into two countries impacted beauty standards.  South Korea followed(s) many American trends while the North Korea remained insular and less affected by external beauty trends.  

What the video highlights are the popular culture trends of the West that were followed by South Korea.  Even today the goals of the Asian face are to achieve the double eyelids (for a wider eye), bridged nose and slimmer nostrils and a slimmer jawline.  There are several Asian aesthetics that differ though with the longing for whiter, lighter skin (as many nations and races do due to colonization) and the more petite less pronounced mouth/lips.  So instead of having lip injections and tanning salons, the women focus on lightening creams and do not bother with lip enhancements. 

Accessibility and exposure

As the Business Insider article (Links to an external site.) highlights, South Korea has surpassed the US in the rates of surgeries per person (20 per 1,000 people versus 13 per 1,000 in the US).  The economics of the surgeries has enabled hundreds of clinics to flourish and bred healthy competition, encouraging prices to drop over the past 15 years.  The combination of exposure to popular cultural icons with "perfect faces", ads on billboards in many public spaces (as shown below) and a greater accessibility (physically and financially) has helped to garner a widespread cultural acceptance of cosmetic surgery. 

This acceptability is echoed by the idea that beauty could be the entrance (or lack thereof) or barrier to social and professional opportunities.  Often resumes are accompanied by photos and for some families, giving their child the gift of cosmetic surgery post graduation is the gift of social advantage (as discussed in the video clip from the JK medical group below).  As the reporter in the New Yorker (Links to an external site.) found out, the discussion of fixing the flawed features inherited by the parent with the child is seamless and surgeries become less foreign when their peers are also going under the knife.  

Whether these young women (both Asian and Asian American) feel that they are adhering to Western standards of beauty, one thing is for certain, their exposure to media and popular culture have grave impacts on their decisions to seek out cosmetic surgeries.  The internet, movies, and television shows have always shaped the image of what beauty is, as we have seen through the decades in the United States and the influence globally.  The increased access and exposure to cosmetic surgery has created a culture of acceptance as these are means to ends of hopeful success in societies.  What is important to note is how long lasting the changes of faces and bodies have in societies that shift what is popular in culture in an instant.  We will continue to discuss the impact of images as we move onto the next following weeks with the ways in which gender is represented and presented in the Asian American community.