World fashion history

HUM 385: Cultural History of Fashion (Alternatives to Nudity)

19th Century Europe & United States

EMPIRE (Directoire/Regency) 1799 – 1824

Industrial Revolution- technological and economic developments that shifted a largely rural population making a living from agriculture to a city-centered society engaged factory manufacturing.

Clothing: dress (F)

spencer jacket (F)

shawl (F)

stock (cravat) (M neck tie)

dress shirt/wing collar (M)

greatcoat (M)

hammer claw coat (M)

pantaloons (M)

People: Napoleon and Josephine (France)

Joseph Marie Jacquard (mechanical loom 1801)

Beau Brummell

ROMANTIC 1820 - 1848

British Empire-the largest empire the world has known; England and its colonies included over 20% of the world’s land area and over 400 million people.

Clothing: top hat (M)

swallow tail coat (M)

frock coat (M)

trousers (M)

leg-o-mutton sleeve (F)

bonnet (F)

pantalets (F)

People: Empress Eugenie (France) and Queen Victoria (England)

Elias Howe (sewing machine 1846 US)

Charles Frederick Worth

CRINOLINE 1840 – 1870

American Civil War- (1861-65) bloody clash of moral, political and economic imperatives in the US where southern plantations produced ¾ of the world’s supply of cotton.

Clothing: hoop (F underskirt)

gabriel/princess style dress (F)

chignon (F hairstyle)

morning coat (cutaway) (M)

sack coat (cowes/tuxedo) (M)

spats/lace up shoe (M) right & left 1865

bowler/derby (M)

People: Amelia Bloomer (reformer US)

Mme. Demoreset (paper patterns 1859)

Worth

BUSTLE 1867 - 1887

Robber Barons- captains of industry and commerce who accumulated massive riches and were influential in defining the “American Dream” of place where anyone can succeed.

Clothing: 3 variations on women’s fashion that emphasized the rear view

fedora/boater hat (M)

3 piece suit (M)

ascot (M necktie)

basque (F bodice)

balayeuse (sweeper F skirt)

People: Astor, Carnegie, Ford, Morgan, Rockefeller, Vanderbilt

Mary Elizabeth Haweis (US)

R. W. Sears & A. Roebuck, catalogue 1887

Worth/ Doucet

HOUR-GLASS (fin de siecle) 1882 - 1900

Gilded Age- the physical, economic and population expansion of the US, including the arrival of nearly 12 million immigrants between 1870 and 1900.

Clothing: shirt waist/blouse (F)

gored skirt (F)

balloon sleeves (F)

frou-frou (F ruffles)

neck tie (M)

People: Charles Dana Gibson (artist US)

W.L. Judson (zipper 1891)

Redfern/ Callot/ Felix