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FruitSpirits.pdf

Fruit Spirits FAB 367: Spirits and Liqueurs of the

World

Learning Outcomes

• Identify what is a Fruit Spirit

• Identify the difference between Brandy and Cognac

• Cognac production and classifications

• Armagnac production and classifications

• Brandy de Jerez production and classifications

• Pisco production and classifications

• Calvados production and classifications

• Fruit Brandy and Eau de Vie production and classifications

• Grappa production and classifications

Brandy

• Brandies are distilled wherever grapes are found

• Brandy comes from the Dutch Brandewijn (Burnt wine)

• Two categories: • Grape Brandies: Distilled from fermented grape juice and pomace

• Pomace Brandies: Distilled from pressed pulp and skin

• French grape brandy is an exception as it is distilled from natural spirit blended with high proof grape spirit

• Cognac is the best known type of grape brandy in the world • Other grape brandies are judged by Cognac

• Fruit brandies distilled from fruits other then grapes must specify the fruit

Cognac

Cognac • Cognac region located north of Bordeaux on the Atlantic coast

of France

• Departments of • Charente and Charente-Maritime

• Further subdivided into six (6) growing areas (Crus) established 1909 ratified in 1938

• Grande Champagne:

• Petite Champagne:

• Borderies:

• Fins Boris:

• Bon Bois:

• Bois Ordinaires /Bois aTerroir:

France

Cognac • Grande Champagne:

• Chalky soils: Angoumous chalk, and Cognacian chalk • Grapes grown here produce eau-de-vie is light with finesse and elegance • Floral, light, require a long aging period.

• Petite Champagne: • Predominantly made of chalk, but the soil is more compact. • Grapes grown here produce eau-de-vie that’s light and fine, floral bouquet, not with finesse,

elegance and complexity as Grande Champagne. • Take a long time to mature.

• Borderies: • Smallest of the six crus • Both chalk and clay. • Oldest soil in the region • Rounded eau-de-vie , characteristics only found here • Aroma of violets, and nutty, toffee flavors • Shorter aging required • Prized fro assemblages

Cognac • Fins Boris:

• The largest of all the growth areas • Clay, stone, and limestone, has far less chalk • Soils known as “Groies” • There are pockets of chalk very similar to that of Grande Champagne. • Rounded, smooth eau-de-vie produced • Bouquet the scent of grapes • Ages quickly

• Bon Bois: • Soil a mixture of clay, limestone, and sand. • Surrounded by Chestnut and Pine tress • Eau-de-vie round, and ages much quicker than other areas. • Has a few pockets of high quality chalk, this produce some exceptional

Cognacs.

• Bois Ordinaires /Bois aTerroir: • Soils very sandy, with little chalk. • Eau-de-vie ages fast, have a very characteristic ‘maritime’ flavor.

Grande Champagne Soil

Petite Champagne Soil

Cognac Production • Grapes:

• Ugni Blanc: 95%. • Late maturing

• High acid, low alcohol 8-10% abv

• Folle Blanche: • Light dry acidic wine

• Colombard: • Light dry acidic wine

• More alcohol then Ugni Blanc and Folle Blanche

• Folignon: • Hybrid 10% of plantings per grower

• Wines are thin and acidic, low in alcohol.

Cognac Production

• Harvest beginning of October , no later than 31st October by law

• Pressing and fermentation determining influence on the final quality of the eau-de-vie

• Pneumatic bladder pressing typically used

• Continuous pressing is not permitted

Continuous pressing

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qty7jbq64s

Pneumatic bladder pressing

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWBoN8oaQsw

• Chaptalization is not permitted

• 7-10 days after beginning fermentation the mash contains 9% abv and correct acidity for distillation

Cognac and the Law Law of May 15th 1936

If the eau-de-vie has not been produced according to these regulations, it is not allowed to be called Cognac.

• Permitted Grapes: Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche, Colombard, Folignon, Semillon

• Wine making: Screw press, must enrichment and use of SO2 forbidden

• Distillation: Double distilled • Direct heat from a naked flame • Copper pot still (Alembic Charentails a Repasse) • March 31st following the harvest • New spirit not to exceed 72.4% abv

• Maturation: • Aged in oak min 2 years

• Can use infused oak chips and sweeteners in limited quantities • Age measured from 1st April following the vintage

Cognac Production

• There are two stages in distillation • Stage One: Bourillis: 27-30% abv

• Stage Two: La Bonne Chauffe. The Bourillis is distilled a second time

• The pot used must not hold more than 30 hectoliters (3000 bottles)

• Brouillis is converted into eau-de-vie not to exceed 72% abv.

• The product is a clear, transparent liquid with a flavor of vine blossom and grapes.

Cognac Production • During the second distillation the head and the tail are redistilled

with the Brouillis

• The heart (le Coeur) from the La Bonne Chauffe is retained.

• Stored in oak for a min 2 years and much longer

• 3-6% angles share per year

• Loss of alcoholic strength 0.4-0.5% per year

• High strength may extract too much from the wood, reduced to 60% abv

• The distillation for wine to produce Cognac close • March 31st following the harvest

Cognac Aging

• Oak is carefully chosen • Limousin or Troncais Forests.

• Eau-de-vie will extract more tannin and vanilla from Limousin oak barrels

• Troncais a tighter grain, less porous to alcohol. Less tannins and more ligins • Used for younger and faster maturing Cognac

• Become more woody if aged in Limousin

• The size and age of the cask is chosen to control how much spirit is exposed to the wood at any stage during its maturation

• 350 liters standard barrel size (Bordeaux 225Litres)

Cognac Aging • Aging is essential for an eau-de-vie to be sold as Cognac

• Humidity reduces alcohol strength faster than alcohol volume

• Too dry the liquid volume evaporates more quickly leaving less character (Dry and Hard)

• Depending on the nature of each barrel, 30-50 years may be necessary for the brandy to absorb all the tannin and lignin from the wood.

• When burned in the barrel charring process, the broken down lignin products add to many of the smoky, phenolic components to the aging spirit, while the cellulose and hemicellulose impart many of the caramel-type flavors.

• Both new and old oak barrels are used

• Eau-de-vie is first stored in new oak approx. 6-12 months, then transferred to older barrels.

Cognac Aging

• Aging is essential for an eau-de-vie to be sold as Cognac

• Approx 20 years rich oiliness Rancio • Nutty charter similar to sherry

• After 50-60 years moved to a special cellar Paradis (paradise)

• Stored in whicker encased glass jars (demijohn) to prevent further development

Cognac Blending

• Master Blender (Maître de Chai) translates to keeper of the cellar or the person responsible for the development and aging of wine.

• During maturation, brandies from different regions and ages are constantly blended before returning to cask until the final house style is reached

• Barrel rotation system employed

• New spirit placed into new barrels from 6-12 months

• Then decanted into older, less flavor active

• Few exceptional Cognacs aged for 50-60 years

Cognac Classifications VS: Very Special. Can contain up to 40 cognacs

• Youngest eau-de-vie min 2 years

VSOP: Very Special Old Pale/Reserve. Can contain up to 60 cognacs

• Youngest eau-de-vie in the blend min 4 years

XO: Extra Old. Extra Napoleon/Imperial/Hor d’Age. Can contain up to 80 cognacs

• Youngest eau-de-vie in the blend min 10 years

Single Cru • 100% eau-de-vie from a single Cru (Grand Champagne)

Fine Champagne • Appellation cognac fine champagne controlee: eau-de-vie sourced

exclusively from Grand Champagne min 50% and Petite Champagne crus only *** (3 star) or VS (very Special)

• Youngest eau-de-vie in the blend min 2 years

Cognac Classifications

Vintage Cognac (Millésime)

• All vintage Cognacs indicate on the label the harvest year for production

• Cognac delimited region eau-de-vie being matured for vintage Cognacs are generally aged in sealed oak casks.

• All brandies are registered with the Bureau National Interprofessional du Cognac (BNIC)

Commercial Rules

• All additives are prohibited (1921 Decree) with the exceptions of: • Reduction with distilled or demineralized water sugar

• Caramel

• Oak infusion for final adjustment

• Min Alcohol content 40%abv

• Spirits are reduced to bottling strength • Some aged spirits do not need reducing due to evaporation

• Where required reduction is not completed in one go

• Sudden reduction can course “soapy” flavors

• The strength is reduced gradually over a period of time

• Instead of water some produces use Petite Eaux or Faibels • These are low strength blended water and cognac created for this task

Armagnac

Armagnac • The oldest wine based eau-

de-vie • Frances first Brandy • The oldest document of

Armagnac production 1310

• Produced in Gascony region of France, south of Cognac more inland.

• From a single distillation of white wine

• Single column still • Armagnac Still

• Aged in oak casks

Armagnac Production

• Structure of trade in Armagnac differs from Cognac • No large dominate producer, range of smaller estates

• Production process follows strict regulation established by Appellation d‘Origine Contrôlée (AOC) 1936

• Wider range of grape varieties available

• Distilled to a lower abv

• Can make unaged brandy

• Brandy form Armagnac more intensely aromatic and full bodied

Armagnac Production Grapes:

• Ten varieties are permitted, the four (4) main varieties • Ugni Blanc:

• 55% plantings

• High acid, low alcohol 8-10% abv

• Baco 22-A: • 35% plantings

• Suited to the sandy soils of Bais-Armagnac

• Rounded eau-de-vie, aromas of ripe fruit

• Rich early prune like charter

• Folle Blanche: • 5% plantings

• Light dry acidic wine

• Floral charter

• Colombard: • 5% plantings

• Light dry acidic wine

• Spicy, peppery edge

Armagnac Production Areas • There are three terroirs/appellations in the region.

• These are often found on the bottle labels.

Bas-Armagnac • 57% of the total AOC • Vines grown on slightly acidic siliceous clay soils • eau-de-vie: Light, delicate, fruity

Tenareze • Mix of clay and fine sand sediment • eau-de-vie: more full bodied long aging required

Haut-Armagnac • Chalky hills areas of clay and limestone • Hardly any Armagnac is produced here, 1%.

Armagnac • Bas-Armagnac

• Tenareze

• Haut-Armagnac

Armagnac Distillation • Grape varieties are fermented separately

• Wines are typically 8-10%abv

• Grape varieties are usually distilled separately

• Distilled between 55-72.4% abv • Cognac 72.4%

• Armagnac typically less than 60%abv

• Column still: (alambic Armagnacais) • Suited for making low strength spirits.

• Armagnac Column Still https://www.youtube.com/e5547336-4d61-417c-a3e1-f36640306c9b

1 Wine vat. 2 Serpentine. 3 Distillation plates. 4 Column. 5 Swan neck. 6 Barrel

Armagnac and the Law • Permitted Grapes: Ten varieties are allowed, most important are

Ugni Blanc, Baco 22-A, Folle Blanche, Colombard

• Wine making: Must enrichment and use of SO2 forbidden

• Distillation: Can either be Double distilled in a Pot Still or Continious Column Still • Direct heat from a naked flame • Column still (alambic Armagnacais) • Maximum of 17 plates • March 31st following the harvest • New spirit between 52%-72.4% abv

• Maturation: • Aged in Oak, min 1 year, exception Blanche Armagnac (stored in inert

containers) • Can use infused oak chips and sweeteners in limited quantities • Age measured from 1st April following the vintage

Armagnac Aging • After distillation Armagnac is aged in oak casks (Pieces) 400 liters

• Wood for the barrels form Gascony Forests • Montlezun and Limousin

• Temperature and humidity levels in aging cellars

• Glass jars (demijohn) also used to prevent further development and preserve old spirits

• Petite Eaux used to reduce strength before blending and bottling (Min 40%abv)

Blanche Armagnac • This is an AOC Armagnac (May 27th 2005)

• Defines the production requirements for Blanche Armagnac

• Only produced in the Armagnac delimited area

• From identified vineyards parcels

• Kept in inert containers as soon as distilled (Stainless Steel)

• Only considered for assessment after 3 months resting

• During resting the distiller works on the eua-de-vie • To lower alcohol

• Bring out the fruity charter profile

Armagnac Classifications

3 Etoiles (3 Stars): • Youngest eau-de-vie in the blend min 2 years

VSOP: Very Special Old Pale or VO: Very Old • Youngest eau-de-vie in the blend min 5 years

XO: Extra Old. or Napoleon • Youngest eau-de-vie in the blend min 6 years

Hor d’Age: • Youngest eau-de-vie in the blend min 10 years

Commercial Rules

• All additives are prohibited (1921 Decree) with the exceptions of: • Reduction with distilled or demineralized water,

• Sugar syrup

• Caramel

• Oak infusion for final adjustment

• Min Alcohol content 40%abv

Brandy de Jerez

Brandy de Jerez Only Spanish brandy that is controlled and defined by Spanish Law

• High strengths spirit

• Solera system

Grape Varieties • Airén 95% Grown in La Mancha

• Wine has low acidity higher level of alcohol than Cognac and Armagnac

Distillation • Majority completed in La Mancha

• Pot and Column stills used for all three styles • Holandes (Pot still)

• Aguardientes

• Destilados

Brandy de Jerez Maturation

• Must be aged in the Region of Jerez

• Solera System used. • Allows bending to take place during maturation

• Criadera: The name given to the different stages in the blending

• Solera: Holds the oldest spirit • Each barrel in the Solera will have spirit removed.

• The barrels are not fully emptied and topped up with spirit from the oldest Criadera

Solera System

Brandy de Jerez and the Law • Protected by Spanish law

Distillation: • Holandes (Pot still): Max 70% abv • Aguardientes: 70-86%abv • Destilados: Min 86% abv

• 50% of the spirits used have been distilled to 86% abv or less

Maturation: • Must be aged in a Solera System • Barrels 1000L or less previously used for sherry • Maturation must take place in Jerez

Labelling:

• Sloers: Aged for 6 months

• Solera Reserva: Aged for min 12 months

• Solera Gran Reserva: Aged for min 36 months

Pisco

Pisco • Grape Brandy

• Can only be made from certain grapes in designated regions in Peru and Chile

• Grapes are destemmed, juice separated from the skin and seeds

• Pomace is disposed of, juice is fermented into wine and then distilled

• Only a single distillation, it must also be distilled to proof, at between 38 to 48% abv.

• Chile and Prue have different distillation and classifications

Pisco Chile

• Grapes: Muscat: Pedro Jimenzz and Torontel • Grapes are nominally mixed at time of fermentation

• Fermentation: Added yeast is permitted

• Distillation: In copper pots, with continues column termination instead of capitel and swan neck

• Alcohol range: Completed distillate can reach 75% abv

• Dilution: Permitted with distilled/deionized water

• Aging: • Rested min 60 days, wooden vessels can be used • Rauli local wood often used • Wooden barrels 12 moths of more

• Classification: • Pisco Corriente or Taditicional: 30-35% abv • Pisco Especial: 35-40% abv • Pisco Reservado: 40%abv • Gran Pisco: 43% abv or more

Pisco Peru

• Non Aromatic Grapes: Quebranta, Negra Corriente, Mollar, Uvina

• Aromatic Grapes: Italia, Torontel, Moscatel, Albilla

• Fermentation: 100% natural. Only airborne yeast permitted

• Distillation: In copper pots, with capitel and swan neck. Single distillation, cutting head and tail. Distilled to bottle proof

• Alcohol range: Completed distillate can reach 38-48% abv

• Dilution: Not Permitted nor the addition of ingredients that affect aroma and flavors

• Aging: • Bottled after being rested for min 3 months in inert vessels

• Wood aging is not permitted

• Only inert vats that will not affect aromas and flavors of distillate

Pisco Peru

Classification: • Pisco Puro (Pure): Exclusively from distillation of freshly pressed grapes

from one of the 8 permitted varieties

• Pisco Acholado (Half Breed): From distillation of mixed must from different grape varieties

• Pisco Mosto Verde (Green Must): From fresh distilled grape must that has not been completely fermented

Calvados

Calvados • From Normandy (France)

• Distilled from cider (1500)

• Mostly made from apples but can include pears

• Not uncommon to use over 100 varieties of apples • Sweet • Tart • Bitter

• The fruit is harvested and pressed into juice, fermented into a dry cider 6%-8% abv.

• Then distilled into Eau de Vie.

• Clear spirit aged in oak casks. Min two years

• The longer it is aged, the smoother the drink becomes. Usually, the maturation goes on for several years. • Calvados” 40% abv.

Calvados Appellations

Calvados Appellations • There are three appellations in Calvados

• AOC Calvados • AOC Calvados Pays d'Auge • AOC Calvados Domfrontais

• AOC Calvados • 70% of the total production • Min two years aging in oak barrels. • The terroir, geographical area, is defined. Grouped together 1980s • The apples and pears are defined cider varieties. • Production procedures: pressing, fermentation, distillation, ageing, regulated. • Usually, single-column distillation.

Calvados Appellations • AOC Calvados Pays d'Auge

• Established 1942

• Apples dominate, mostly made with only apples

• Extensive quality control, the basic rules for AOC calvados together with several additional requirements.

• Min two years aging in oak barrels.

• Double distillation in an alembic pot-still.

• It must be produced within the designated area in Pays d'Auge.

• A minimum of six weeks of fermentation of the cider is required.

• Flavor elements are controlled.

Calvados Appellations • AOC Calvados Domfrontais

• Regulation similar to the AOC calvados and column still used.

• Minimum 30% pears from the designated areas used.

• Min three years aging in oak barrels.

• The orchards must consist of at least 15% pear

• Fermier calvados ("farm-made") • Indicates the calvados is entirely made on the farm in a traditional agricultural way

according to high quality demands.

Fruit Brandy and Eau de Vie

Fruit Brandy and Eau de Vie • Fruit brandy is the generic term for strong spirit, distilled from

fermented fruit juice or crushed fruits other than grapes • Bottled at 40%-45% abv (80-90 proof)

• Eau-de Vie French term for any distilled spirit • USA Eau-de Vie used to define dry aromatic fruit brandies

• Difference between Fruit brandies and Fruit flavored brandies • Fruit flavored are typically sweeter

• Fruit brandies are typically distilled in copper pot stills • Can be aged or unaged

Unaged Fruit Brandies • Distilled from whole fruit

• Poire William (Bartlett Pears)

• Framboise (Raspberries)

• Kirsch (Cherries)

• Fraise (Strawberries)

• Mirabelle (Yellow Plums)

Popular Fruit Brandy aged in wood

• Slivovitz (Plums: Eastern Europe and the Balkans)

• Applejack (Apple cider: USA)

• Calvados (Apples, some include pear cider: Normandy)

Grappa

Grappa • Brandy distilled from fermented residue of grapes after

pressing for wine production

• This remaining mix (a blend of grape seeds, stalks, and stems) • Vinaccia or Vinacce: Italy

• Pomace: Everywhere else in the world

• EU regulations: • Must be distilled in Italy

• Italian Pomace used

• Pomace combined with alcohol then heated

• No water added

• Min 37.5% abv

• In Italy, grappa is primarily served as a digestivo or after-dinner drink. Its main purpose is to aid in the digestion of heavy meals.

Grappa

• Three types of Pomace • Fermented: Red wine pomace 4% abv

• Semi-fermented: Rose wine pomace 2.5% abv

• Virgin: White wine pomace contains residual sugar

• Red wine and rose pomace is usually distilled immediately.

• White pomace left to ferment in large S/S vats or silos

Grappa: Distillation Complex process

• Two styles based on the type of still used • Artisanal or small batch discontinuous distillation

• Industrial or continuous column distillation

• Some producers will blend batches from both distillations

• Most common methods small batch discontinuous distillation • Fire heated pot stills, pomace is submerged in water then boiled together

• Baine-marie, no water added. Prevents inner container from boiling of scorching

• Steam cauldrons. Pomace in wire baskets, heated contents piped to copper column still

• Vacuum distillation, lower temp preserves most delicate congeners. • In small batch production first distillate 30%abv (Flegma)

• Passes through the rectifier to increase to 86%abv regulation

Grappa • Italian regulations permit max sucrose addition of 2%

• Caramel for color enhancement • To those grappa's aged at min 18 months in wood

• Styles • Giovane (Young) Remains in S/S until bottling

• Aromatica (Aromatic) aromatic grapes: Muscat, Malvasia, Gewurztramminer

• Invecchiata/Vecchia (Aged/Old) Bottled after 12 -18 mths in wood

• Stravecchia/Reserva (Very old /Reserve) Bottled after min 18 mths in wood

• Monovitgno (Single Variety) Pomace from single variety DOC/DOCG min 40% abv

• Aromatizzata (Flavored) Natural botanicals placed in the infusion after ditillation

• Acquavite d’Uva (Grape Distillate) Not a grappa as distilled from wine

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